Replacing windows in a very old house that doesn't have wood sheathing (ex:OSB)
#1
11-03-13, 02:50 AM
Replacing windows in a very old house that doesn't have wood sheathing (ex:OSB)
I have an old old house built in the 1940s. It does not have the 1/2" or 3/4" wood sheathing (plywood or OSB board) that is nowadays more commonly nailed to the framing, and upon which the window's flanges are nailed too.
Here is my dilemma. I have a bunch of new windows with flanges waiting to be installed. I don't want to nail the flanges to the 2x4 stud framework. I've been told that would be inappropriate because the flanges are supposed to be nailed to the wood sheathing which my house does not have. Since my house does not have wood sheathing, would it be ok to nail the flanges to the siding of the house which also happen to be 3/4"?
One consideration - in about 4-6 years time, I may replace the siding for the entire house. I suppose I could also put in a wood sheathing (plywood or OSB) layer at that time right before putting in new siding.
Here is my dilemma. I have a bunch of new windows with flanges waiting to be installed. I don't want to nail the flanges to the 2x4 stud framework. I've been told that would be inappropriate because the flanges are supposed to be nailed to the wood sheathing which my house does not have. Since my house does not have wood sheathing, would it be ok to nail the flanges to the siding of the house which also happen to be 3/4"?
One consideration - in about 4-6 years time, I may replace the siding for the entire house. I suppose I could also put in a wood sheathing (plywood or OSB) layer at that time right before putting in new siding.
#2
11-03-13, 03:51 AM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
It would have been a whole lot easier if you had of bought replacement windows instead of new construction windows, built out the trim and sill, then wrapped the exposed wood with coil stock.
Or replace the windows and the siding at the same time.
Then you could cut the siding back to the closest studs, and add sheathing until it comes out even with the old siding.
Most often it's 1" not 3/4".
When using new construction windows ordering them with the built in J moulding will help prevent leaks and cut the install time down by at least 25%.
Or replace the windows and the siding at the same time.
Then you could cut the siding back to the closest studs, and add sheathing until it comes out even with the old siding.
Most often it's 1" not 3/4".
When using new construction windows ordering them with the built in J moulding will help prevent leaks and cut the install time down by at least 25%.
#3
11-10-13, 06:50 AM
Thanks for the advice. What I ended up doing was almost exactly like you recommended. Since my windows were a little undersized relative to the rough opening. I added some framing to make the rough opening smaller. The siding was a good 3 inches or more from the rough opening, and I filled that 3 inches with 3/4" thick wood sheathing. Once that was done, my 3" wide wood sheathing butted up smoothly to the 3/4" siding. I then concealed the transition between siding and my sheathing strips with window trim. Of course, I also added all the necessary layers of thin window membrane layers in between all that. Thanks for your great suggestions.
#4
11-10-13, 07:12 AM
Group Moderator
I don't want to nail the flanges to the 2x4 stud framework. I've been told that would be inappropriate because the flanges are supposed to be nailed to the wood sheathing which my house does not have.
#5
11-10-13, 05:35 PM
What do you mean? I thought that in new construction, after the 2x4 and other rigid framework is done, wood sheathing (i.e., plywood, OSB, etc.) goes up next. Then, the windows are done. Then siding. So, in new construction the window flanges are nailed or screwed into the wood sheathing. Correct?
#6
11-10-13, 07:45 PM
Group Moderator
Um... trying to think of how to word this... yes that's correct. Let's say the sheathing is 1/2" thick. You don't use 1/2" nails to nail the window flange to the sheathing. The nails in the flange are long enough that they always penetrate into the studs. The nails certainly go through the sheathing, but the sheathing is not the structural unit that holds the windows, it is the studs around the rough opening.
Your window installation would have been no different than the 100's of thousands of houses that are built out west, where windows with fins are installed directly onto the framing (rough openings are wrapped with moist-stop or similar WRB), and then stucco is added later. Only difference is that you have clapboard instead of stucco.
But I understand what you are saying about replacing the siding and maybe sheathing the house in the future. If you were planning for that, then maybe I could see cladding the perimeter of the opening with the thickness of sheathing that you will be using, and then installing the window w/nailing fin on top of that.
As it's finished now, its a mute point anyway, so I'll save my breath. LOL
Your window installation would have been no different than the 100's of thousands of houses that are built out west, where windows with fins are installed directly onto the framing (rough openings are wrapped with moist-stop or similar WRB), and then stucco is added later. Only difference is that you have clapboard instead of stucco.
But I understand what you are saying about replacing the siding and maybe sheathing the house in the future. If you were planning for that, then maybe I could see cladding the perimeter of the opening with the thickness of sheathing that you will be using, and then installing the window w/nailing fin on top of that.
As it's finished now, its a mute point anyway, so I'll save my breath. LOL
#7
11-14-13, 05:02 AM
I understand what you mean XSleeper. The screws that we did use, to secure the window nail flanges to the house, penetrated the 3/4" wood sheathing and did got into the framing. I wonder though if we used long enough screws for that. Do you have any idea what size screws we should have used for that so I can check that we did it securely?
#8
11-14-13, 05:46 AM
Group Moderator
I'm sure the length is fine. I'd probably use 1 5/8 or 2". More importantly it should be an exterior coated screw so that it doesn't corrode.
