Replacement patio door threshold issue

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  #1  
Old 11-09-13, 02:28 AM
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Replacement patio door threshold issue

We recently ordered a JELD-WEN sliding patio door from Home Depot. After a fiasco over colors etc, the door finally arrived, but to my dismay, it does not have a threshold like the door it is replacing. They have included very cheap wooden extensions to the vinyl frame on the sides and top, but the threshold area would require that I come up with a wood spacer of some sort, which is not what I had in mind. We have 2X6 walls, but it would seem that the vinyl frame is for 2X4 walls with these cheap wood extensions. Photos below:

Existing door Threshold:
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New replacement sliding door:
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HD says this is the way they come, but when I look at the JELD-WEN site, they show doors like our existing. Since it is a replacement I had also asked that it not have a nailing fin, but of course it does.

Any recommendations as to how I should approach this issue?

Thanks
Jeff
 
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Old 11-09-13, 06:01 AM
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Yes, that is the way most vinyl doors are. If you don't want the nailing fin, cut it off. That is also normally the way it is. Slice both sides with a utility knife then bend it back and forth to break it off. Adding an oak threshold is one way to deal with the floor. Changing the floor covering is another, whether it's tile, carpet, vinyl, whatever. Next time it is changed, that threshold can be popped up and the new floor covering run all the way to the door. From the picture, it looks like your interior floor is in need of a little work anyway. The border trim around your parquet floor (those rusty nail stains are worrisome and indicate water has been getting under the door) could be cut and replaced with a wider one, or put some new parquet right up to the door. What is that? Maple parquet?

They do make doors with wider thresholds, but they are usually wood doors. You tell them your wall thickness and they make the door to that thickness so that when you use the nailing fin (as you usually should) the door and threshold come all the way in to the wall surface. The problem you will find if you cut off the nailing fin to shove the door all the way in to the interior wall surface is that the outside edge of the door then probably won't cover the outside edge of the sheathing/siding or concrete/deck at the bottom.

Don't know what picture you were looking at on the website, (they have multiple product lines) but my guess is that if you saw a picture of a door being flush with the interior surface of the wall, the one you looked at probably wasn't vinyl.

If you want suggestions on how to proceed, I would definitely use the nailing fin. Is this house on a concrete slab or is the floor framed with dimensional lumber? Because if it is wood framed, with your concrete patio being so close to the door threshold, I bet you are going to have some rotten wood under there. You will need to caulk the dickens out of that threshold when you set the door in place. You would also need to use a grinder to clean out a slot in that expansion joint (between the concrete patio and the house) for the bottom nailing fin so that it can slip down into that slot as you set the door in. After the door is finished, I'd probably fill that gap with a self levelling concrete joint sealant.
 
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Old 11-09-13, 06:48 AM
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You could have ordered a door made with wider jambs to fit a 2 X 6 wall.
You can also buy doors that have a composite material at the bottom or the jamb or solid PVC jambs so there never going to rot out again.
I see you have one of the biggest and most common mistakes and builder can do, that deck never should have been that close to the threshold. In most cases in a snow are it should have been between 6 and 7" below the threshold. If not there's always going to a water getting inside problem.
What type siding do you have that would make you think cutting off the nail fin is a good idea?
You badly need a jamb sill under that door before reinstalling it.
That would help prevent any water from getting in.
Jamsill Guard Door & Window Sill Pan Flashing
 
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Old 11-10-13, 06:38 AM
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Thanks for the replies.

The patio is 6" below the threshold and is made of outdoor wood with gaps between the boards for drainage. The rusty nails on the flooring is undoubtedly due to the kids and dog using the door in winter and bringing in snow, which melts etc... The concrete in the picture is with the door sitting in my garage, perhaps that bought on some confusion.

The home is 2x6 timber frame construction, over a concrete foundation. The patio door itself would be ~2' from the ground below, and as mentioned above 6" from the deck. Cell phone may have made that deceiving.

I do intent on installing a sillpan under the door and have already purchased a vinyl product, whose name escapes me, but was recommended by JELD-WEN.

I was really hoping not to have to install a wooden threshold extension out of oak or other wood, as this will look dingy over time with traffic coming in and out and invariably stepping on it. Hence why I was frustrated when I came home to find the door delivered with virtually no threshold. I was expecting a direct replacement with a large sloping threshold like the existing door, that covered the entire width of the 2x6 wall
 
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Old 11-10-13, 07:23 AM
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Glad your patio is 6" below the finished floor. No, I didn't realize that was SNOW on the deck... at first glance I thought it was concrete! But now I see that you're in Canada and it all makes sense now. LOL

I don't see how adding wood in that space would be any more susceptible to foot traffic than the rest of the floor is. Which is why maybe the parquet flooring would work and look better than a wide threshold.

When you install the sill pan, be sure you use sealant underneath it as an air barrier, sealant where the pieces overlap, and also sealant on top of the sill pan before you set the door on top (at the interior lip of the sill pan). Window flashing tape can be used to help seal the pan to the framing on each side.
 
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