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Door won't close all the way.


tonic's Avatar
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02-18-14, 10:54 PM   #1  
Door won't close all the way.

The door used to shut, but you had to slam it really hard to get the latch to go into the latch hole. If you just casually shut the door it won't close all the way. Anyone know how to fix this?

 
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chandler's Avatar
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02-19-14, 03:09 AM   #2  
Is it an interior or exterior door? Is it warped? If you moved the latch would it still seal?

 
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02-19-14, 04:52 AM   #3  
It sounds like the door is dragging against the frame/jamb when you try to close it. Is the gap even all the way around the door? If it's dragging where is it hitting? If it's near the top of the door then it's possible the door has sagged and you might be able to fix it by removing a couple of the screws from the top hinge that go into the wall and replace with 3" screws. The longer screws should go into the house's framing and allow you to tighten hard and pull the door up into proper position.

 
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02-19-14, 06:55 AM   #4  
Do you mean the latch is not working? I have had many not latch in the winter when the dry air changes the warp of wood. I just cut the latch plate to accommodate that change.

 
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02-19-14, 07:29 AM   #5  
Ok, I checked out the door again. Looks like the reveal and all the gaps around the door are even and consistent. Maybe I should just make the latch hole a little but bigger?

 
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02-19-14, 07:41 AM   #6  
Close the door just enough that the latch touches the strike plate and mark it with a pencil.
Open the door and see if it lines up with the hole in the latch.
Depending on how far it's off just removing the short screw in the hinge and using a longer one in most cases will lift or lower the door enough to catch.
To high do the bottom hinge, to low do the top one.
If it lines up but the latch is not dropping into the hole, and it's an inside door you can remove the door stop trim, close and latch the door and reinstall it.

 
tonic's Avatar
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02-19-14, 08:10 AM   #7  
This is for an exterior door. The door is fairly new and not warped.

Yep, the latch lines up with the strike plate hole. And the latch is working fine. If only the hole in the strike plate was a little bit repositioned.

Should I move the latch or move the strike plate hole?

 
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02-19-14, 08:17 AM   #8  
100 % sure the hole was bored deep enough and none of it is sticking out hitting the latch?
Check the jamb for plumb if there off the door will hit at the bottom or top of the stop before it's fully closed.
Never a good idea to move a strike plate, the holes will be to close together and strip out.

 
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02-19-14, 08:49 AM   #9  
I just look where the latch needs more room and take a Dremal with a metal cutter to open the hole where needed.

 
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02-20-14, 04:26 PM   #10  
Hi, Take the strike plate off and close the door if it latches the hole is in the riright place. You say you have to slam the door to make it latch that leads me to believe the strike plate is too close to the door stop. You can cut or file the edge of the strike plate hole that is futherest away from door stop. I have on occasion with the strike plate in place put a cold chisle in the hole and holding the chisle whap the side of the chisle and drive the strike plate back it sometimes works and it doesn't even like it moved.
If none of this works buy an adjustable stike plate.
Good Luck Woodbutcher

 
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02-21-14, 01:51 PM   #11  
If it makes you feel any better, I had an elderly man call yesterday, said he had a "carpenter" come out and install a door where one had been damaged. It just wouldn't close. It kept hitting the carpet.
Long story short, the "carpenter" installed the new blank 1" too low, hinge wise without mortising the hinges, reversed the hinge halves on the door side (up side down), and installed the lock plunger in the wrong direction. It wasn't going to close.

Had to mortise the hinges on the door to the correct level, reverse those halves, and flip the lockset plunger. How do they get away with this stuff??

 
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