Framing a door
#1
03-25-14, 08:34 AM
Framing a door
I am currently doing some work on my home (built in 1885). They previous owners put in a door, but did not build a fram for it. They bascially cut out an opening and slapped it in. So, unlike other projects they did, I am starting somewhat from scratch. I now know that my house was built with a balloon frame style. Is there something different or special I need to do in order to build the frame for the new door? It's a prehung 36" door. I was planning using two 2x10's with a 1x8 sandwiched inbetween for the header. I was going to build it to the next exising studs (for my king studs) on both sides and then put in double jack studs next to those. Any input is greatly appreciated.
#2
03-25-14, 08:54 AM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Got a picture?
Inside or outside door?
Outside your going to be dealing with the gap between the flooring and the outside wall.
Almost never is the floor going to be level, Do not count on your jacks to be the same length and have the header be level.
Inside or outside door?
Outside your going to be dealing with the gap between the flooring and the outside wall.
Almost never is the floor going to be level, Do not count on your jacks to be the same length and have the header be level.
#3
03-25-14, 09:13 AM
Here's what I'm up against. As you can see, the stud directly to the right of the door runs into the second story. Actually is't 2 studs nailed together. Anyway, I have to cut into that one and I planned on running the header to the next stud over and use that for the king stud. Kind of the same on the other side.
#5
03-25-14, 09:25 AM
If you're referring to that top plate, it's simply notched into the studs. The rest of the studs run up into the second floor of the house. I could be wrong about it being balloon framing. I'm no expert by any means. I've seen a few videos on balloon framing and when they show the wall cavity, it looks just like what I have.
#10
03-25-14, 08:37 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
That's balloon framing. Use an oscillating saw or a sawsall with a short wide blade to cut out the stud above the door for a header.
Really only need a doubled up 2 X 6's ripped to the width of the old 2 X's laying flat as a header. It's just for something to attach the trim to in your case.
Going to have to shim out all those old 2X's to make up for the old lath and add extension jambs to the door.
It would be a lot better to just get rid of all the old plaster and lath on that whole wall so you could add fire block at the top and bottom of the walls, shim the wall out the just use regular sheetrock.
Fire blocking is nothing more then 2 X 6's rid to seal the gaps in the wall.
The way it is now the air can flow all the way from the crawlspace to the attic, A huge fire hazard and HVAC loose.
Really only need a doubled up 2 X 6's ripped to the width of the old 2 X's laying flat as a header. It's just for something to attach the trim to in your case.
Going to have to shim out all those old 2X's to make up for the old lath and add extension jambs to the door.
It would be a lot better to just get rid of all the old plaster and lath on that whole wall so you could add fire block at the top and bottom of the walls, shim the wall out the just use regular sheetrock.
Fire blocking is nothing more then 2 X 6's rid to seal the gaps in the wall.
The way it is now the air can flow all the way from the crawlspace to the attic, A huge fire hazard and HVAC loose.
#12
03-26-14, 06:11 AM
Thank you Joe! That's the best advice I've gotten (and I've posted to three different forums). This whole balloon framing thing was a bit of a shock to me and even though I've read that this type of framing is good structurally, it is more dangerous if a fire were to happen. I am planning on getting rid of all the plaster and lath. I planned on using studs to add some support. I'm lining them up with the old studs so that I can use sheetrock. Good call on blocking the wall cavity with 2x6's. I hadn't thought of that yet. I think I might use post jacks to help support the weight since the studs on both sides of the existing door support the celing joists.
