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Need advice on front door, pictures included!

Need advice on front door, pictures included!

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  #1  
Old 04-03-14, 07:18 PM
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Need advice on front door, pictures included!

Hello, I was having rather high utility bills so I decided to do some investigating around the house. Normally the windows and doors are one of the causes for lost heat or cool air. So I started with the front door and pulled the interior trim to see how it was attached. I noticed that there wasn't any kind of expanding foam around the door, and that the deadbolt was basically only going through a 1x4. I was wondering what would be the easiest type of door to install, or what my approach should be? I am looking to replace it with something sturdy, I am thinking all wood with a fan window at the top. Here are the pictures and let me know what you think and what you would suggest. Thank you so much!




 
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  #2  
Old 04-04-14, 05:04 AM
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Before spray foam it was SOP to stuff fiberglass insulation in the void ..... and a long time ago they didn't use anything

A metal door will outlast a wood door especially if it sees much wind/rain. If you do go with a wood door it is important to paint/seal the top and bottom! That makes it harder for the door to absorb moisture. I'm sure there are a lot of different styles of door that will look great. I'd suggest going to the store and looking at the options to see what appeals to you and your budget.
 
  #3  
Old 04-04-14, 05:13 AM
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A fan window door will make a big difference in letting in some light. Good choice. As Marksr says a steel door is more durable and is more typical of new installs. Don't skimp on quality (cost). If you're not confident about installing a prehung door, then by all means get a professional to do it.
 
  #4  
Old 04-04-14, 07:03 AM
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It's not the door that's the weak spot, it's the jambs.
No way would I ever want a wooden door!
It's going to be a mantaince issue from day one.
Want that window then go with another steel door or a fiberglass door.
Any door you buy will still have a 3/4" thick jamb, and still have a weak spot.
There's brass plates that can be added where the latch plates are now that are wider and come with 3" long screws so they go into the stud, not just into the jamb.
 
  #5  
Old 04-05-14, 12:03 AM
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So basically I should just grab a steel door prehung and install it? I can do that pretty easily. However you are saying there is no way to reinforce the part where the deadbolt goes through? I just want it to be a little bit tougher to kick in my front door. Should I consider reframing the entrance to reinforce it before installing the prehung door?
 
  #6  
Old 04-05-14, 04:04 AM
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I don't see anything that would justify a new door. Where your sheetrock ends at the latch side is a framinf member. You can purchase deeper pocketed deadbolt receivers which use 3" screws to attach to the framing instead of to the jamb alone. Use minimally expanding foam around the door.
 
  #7  
Old 04-05-14, 04:13 AM
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I have a bldg that has been broken into multiple times I took a piece of angle iron, cut out for the deadbolt and latch and screwed it to the jamb/stud. That and bars on the window have prevented anyone from getting in Obviously you'd want something nicer looking on your house but the same principle applies.
 
  #8  
Old 04-05-14, 05:00 AM
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My opinion! Strengthening a door jamb and lock on a home is over kill and not worth the money time or effort. If a person wants to get in they will and only cause more damage in an effort to break through. My feelings are give as little incentive to break in and have as little valuable stuff around. And hopefully a break in will cause minimal damage.
Spend that same money on a security system such as Simplisafe or ADT or a recording IP camera.
 
  #9  
Old 04-05-14, 05:46 AM
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Very few break and enters begin at the front door. Too visible. Basement windows hidden by hedges, back doors/windows, etc. Weakest link theory applies.
 
  #10  
Old 04-30-14, 07:07 PM
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I hate to bump this thread but I couldn't let that misinformation go. There are numerous break-ins where they simply kick in the front door. Look up any news from the Houston, TX area as one example. A woman and her child hid upstairs as men kicked in her front door, robbed her and thankfully didn't find her in the closet. Scary! I would like to know that my front door can't be walked through so easily.
 
  #11  
Old 05-01-14, 02:56 AM
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Front doors are not your security feature. In fact that is where you walk in, so it is where burglars walk in. Without getting political, the story you told should have had a different ending, requiring the cleaning of the foyer by biohazard professionals. One must protect themselves beyond the imaginary barricade of a front door.

Have you been able to modify things, or is there something further we can help you with?
 
  #12  
Old 05-01-14, 04:14 AM
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requiring the cleaning of the foyer by biohazard professionals.
I know I'm hijacking this thread and I do apologize. But what are you talking about? Did I miss something? It was break in not a zombie incursion.

To get back on topic. Chandler advice about getting deeper deadbolts is a good choice, but the kicking in of a front door is very often a ruse or misleading action to hide a more vulnerable entry. This was graphically brought to our attention by the investigating dectective looking into the break in at my daughter's home recently. Boot and shoe marks were obvious on the door, but the break in occurred at the sliding glass door in back. The front door could easily been broken through with just a small amount of effort. We did not realize this until the detective pointed it out.
 
  #13  
Old 05-01-14, 03:29 PM
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But what are you talking about? Did I miss something? It was break in not a zombie incursion.
Norm, talking about the mess a Mossberg 500A with 00 buck shot would make. There is never a need for anyone to successfully be robbed or burglarized in their own home. Front door, back door, sliding glass doors. Just sayin'
 
  #14  
Old 05-01-14, 08:35 PM
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Just wanted to chime in. The new pre-hung doors and jambs that I have seen lately from the big home improvement stores in my area are coming with a steel plate nailed to the back of the jamb where the deadbolt goes. It's about, oh, 6x4. This will give some strength to the jamb, but would still definately run the 3" screws into the stud behind. Oh, and make sure to pre-drill and angle a little towards the meat of the stud so you don't split it.
 
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