Prehung door Threshold help
#1
04-19-14, 02:10 PM
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Prehung door Threshold help
Hi,
This is my first post here. I have a lot of upcoming projects this year so I hope this site will b helpful
. I am getting ready to install a rear entry door to my house. I have chose to do a prehung door. I measured 3 times width to the studs and 3 times the height. I removed the trim of course to do this and went with the smallest measurement. My concern is the threshold is slanted toward the outside. Will there be a big gap due to this when I got to hang the new door? It's a concrete threshold. Do I have to measure the outside to get the slant measurement? I am a bit confused about this. I have hung interior doors before but not an exterior. So I want to get my measurements right before I take them to Home Depot and buy a door. Thanks for your time and help.
This is my first post here. I have a lot of upcoming projects this year so I hope this site will b helpful
. I am getting ready to install a rear entry door to my house. I have chose to do a prehung door. I measured 3 times width to the studs and 3 times the height. I removed the trim of course to do this and went with the smallest measurement. My concern is the threshold is slanted toward the outside. Will there be a big gap due to this when I got to hang the new door? It's a concrete threshold. Do I have to measure the outside to get the slant measurement? I am a bit confused about this. I have hung interior doors before but not an exterior. So I want to get my measurements right before I take them to Home Depot and buy a door. Thanks for your time and help.
#2
04-19-14, 02:39 PM
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If it really slopes that much, I'd probably be inclined to use some mortar (or self leveling compound) to level it out, then set the door on top of that. Will leave a very minor step up at the edge of the threshold but you'll be stepping over that anyway since there is no real stoop/porch there.
What were your actual measurements from the top step to the header? It looks like the door is closing against the upper step.
What were your actual measurements from the top step to the header? It looks like the door is closing against the upper step.
#3
04-19-14, 03:17 PM
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It's not an actual upper step. It is 2 steps into the house then the threshold. My measurements were 80 7/8 x 32. I'll add another picture of the steps.
#4
04-19-14, 03:55 PM
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I thought that was going to be the issue. If your stud to stud distance is 32, then you'll need a 30" door. The problem is the height. Standard height doors available off the shelf are known (in the door world lingo) as something like 2/6x6/8. First number being in feet, second is inches. That example would equate to retail markings of 30 x 80. Thats the actual door size...the rough opening for that door would be approx 32 x 82 depending somewhat on the manufacturer.
You will need to special order a 2/6 6/6 ( or 30"x78") unless you have a good building supply or door distributor nearby.
You will need to special order a 2/6 6/6 ( or 30"x78") unless you have a good building supply or door distributor nearby.
#6
04-19-14, 06:12 PM
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So what your saying is the actual door size will be 30 x 78. Then the case or door jamb around it will be a little larger? Is that what your saying? Is there any way around not having to do mortar or leveling compound? I can just see it breaking down after a while. Is there any way to have the door jamb cut slanted like the threshold?
#7
04-19-14, 07:21 PM
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Your brick exterior size is one of the critical measurements, since you can't (shouldn't) get into that. So what's the brick opening size on the exterior of the door. For a 32" door, it should be at least 36x83 for the brickmould trim and a standard sized 32" storm door to fit.
You can easily make a 80 7/8" rough opening big enough for an 82" tall door. And you will gain a little room if your grind that concrete sill flat where the door sits. Maybe only 3/8" or 1/4" but it needs to be flat and level. You also want it closer to the finished floor (as close as you can get it) or that will be quite a lip there. That's another reason to cup grind the existing sill down.
You can easily make a 80 7/8" rough opening big enough for an 82" tall door. And you will gain a little room if your grind that concrete sill flat where the door sits. Maybe only 3/8" or 1/4" but it needs to be flat and level. You also want it closer to the finished floor (as close as you can get it) or that will be quite a lip there. That's another reason to cup grind the existing sill down.
#8
04-19-14, 07:29 PM
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X....how can he fit a 32" door in if he measured 32" between studs?
Turntable...could you clarify. Since you took the trim off to measure...I was presuming you actually measured the house framing stud to stud.
Turntable...could you clarify. Since you took the trim off to measure...I was presuming you actually measured the house framing stud to stud.
#9
04-19-14, 08:12 PM
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#10
04-19-14, 08:45 PM
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Ok..then no way you can fit a 32" door, it would require approx 34 1/4 since the door frame itself will measure about 33 1/2. Oh sure, there are ways...but they aren't good ways.
What are the measurement of the actual door you have now? The door...not the frame. Bet it's about 30 x 78 or so?
What are the measurement of the actual door you have now? The door...not the frame. Bet it's about 30 x 78 or so?
#11
04-19-14, 09:20 PM
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The door is 79 1/2 x 29 5/8. The frame or jamb is really old from the 40s and is 1 inch thick.
#12
04-19-14, 09:28 PM
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So it's a nominal 30" door, but by using the threshold as the sealing point (much like an outswing door does) it's a nominal 80" height.
#13
04-19-14, 09:59 PM
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Right there is a metal strip that goes across the bottom the the threshold and seals the bottom of the door. It doesn't seal very well anymore. So basically what your telling me is I have to shave the threshold flat to make the door work and I am going most likely have to buy a custom door? Is that right? I wish there were adjustable bottoms to prehung doors to where the aluminum part of the new door threshold is. Like it could slant down on top of the existing concrete threshold.
#14
04-20-14, 01:22 AM
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AHhhh, mostly cuz I didn't read it correctly. The brick opening would have to be 34x83 for the brickmould to fit on a 30" door.
#15
04-20-14, 11:34 AM
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A 78" (6/6) door is a special order, but not really custom. It's a standard manufactured size, just not stocked anywhere unless it's a very common size in your area. Even then, you won't find it at a Big Box store, but maybe at a door distributor or building supply house.
Custom would be something like a 76" door. They actually cut the bottom of a stock door, then add a slide on sweep to it...and surprise surprise...there is no warranty on rust out like a stock door.
It shouldn't be that hard a job. Take all your measurements to the supplier, whether a Box store or building supply and they can give you a price. Prob around $100 or so over a stock door.
Make sure you take RO (rough opening...what you supplied in post 3) dimensions, brick to brick, and outer edge to outer edge of the brickmold and well as height from stoop/concrete to brickmold.
I know X recommended grinding it down....but I think that might be a lot of work and a dusty dirty job.
If you scarify the existing concrete somewhat (course cup wire brush), then apply a bonding agent , you could build some small "dams" out of 1x and use a sand mix to even the slope.
Custom would be something like a 76" door. They actually cut the bottom of a stock door, then add a slide on sweep to it...and surprise surprise...there is no warranty on rust out like a stock door.
It shouldn't be that hard a job. Take all your measurements to the supplier, whether a Box store or building supply and they can give you a price. Prob around $100 or so over a stock door.
Make sure you take RO (rough opening...what you supplied in post 3) dimensions, brick to brick, and outer edge to outer edge of the brickmold and well as height from stoop/concrete to brickmold.
I know X recommended grinding it down....but I think that might be a lot of work and a dusty dirty job.
If you scarify the existing concrete somewhat (course cup wire brush), then apply a bonding agent , you could build some small "dams" out of 1x and use a sand mix to even the slope.
#16
04-20-14, 11:38 AM
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Thats fine. Once you have done it a few times you figure out to use water and it a level and it takes about 60 seconds of grinding. Its much easier to grind perfectly flat and level than to shim or. level.
#18
04-20-14, 11:55 AM
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Well yeah. :-) I used to use a diamond blade but an actual cup grinder makes it so quick and easy that its not even much work. You just keep it moving and keep checking with the level.
#19
04-20-14, 05:20 PM
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Well I think I'm going to use a cup grinder t level it. Can you give me a small walk through of the process. I know how to level with a leveler. But I read a diamond blade for the cup grinder and water??? Just need the full details then. Ill get to it. Thanks for your help!
#20
04-23-14, 05:45 AM
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Bump. Anyone have any input on grinding concrete process and smoothing it out? Should I buy some concrete sealer to put on the threshold after grinding it?
