brickmolding vinyl windows

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  #1  
Old 04-26-14, 08:25 PM
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brickmolding vinyl windows

Hello, was looking for guides on how to install exterior brickmold, or exterior trim in general, on vinyl windows. I have put a new vinyl window with 1-1/4" nail fins in a stucco wall and am about to reapply the stucco around the window (as on the photo). As far as I understand, it is better to have stucco butted up against wood brickmold rather than relatively soft vinyl. The store brickmolds are not much wider than the nail fin though -- what is the right way to install them then?

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I will apply a layer of flashing tape to the nail fin before brickmolding, of course.
Would greatly appreciate any feedback and reference. Thanks and best wishes, h.
 
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Old 04-26-14, 09:05 PM
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Brickmould measures 2" wide. I'm not sure what your question is... but as far as advice, I'd keep the brickmould 1/8" away from the edge of the window just to allow for a little expansion and contraction of the window... this joint should get caulked when you're all done anyway. Also where the brickmould lays over your nailing fin, you might want to run it through a table saw and kerf out an 1/8" x 1 1/4" to compenstae for the thickness of the nailing fin, so that the brickmould will lay flat on your sheathing and not tip as much on your screws or nail fin. If you cut it all to size, mitering the corners, and fasten it together at the corners with exterior glue and exterior trim screws, you can then hang that brickmould frame around the window and nail it on with galvanized casing nails (predrill and set with a nail set if you like).

Also, I can't tell from the picture but I hope those are exterior rated screws, not drywall screws, and maybe they are. Just wanted to mention it because drywall screws can rust and bleed that rust onto the white vinyl.
 
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Old 04-26-14, 09:29 PM
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Thanks! I will hang the brickmold frame on the window and nail it to the wall then. The screws are outdoor rated, not drywall. Cutting a shallow rabbet is a great idea; will have to borrow a table saw for this and 45 miters.
 
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Old 04-27-14, 04:21 AM
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You'll want a miter saw for the 45s - a table saw doesn't give a nice joint although it could be addressed with caulking. I'd go ahead and apply a coat of paint to the brickmold prior to installation, especially the 2 sides that can't get painted later ..... but then I am a painter
 
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Old 04-27-14, 06:14 AM
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Thank you! Yes, no doubts here, I will pre-finish the woodwork as much as possible before installation.
 
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Old 04-27-14, 06:27 AM
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#1 Get rid of those screws, it was suppose to be nailed with galvanized roofing nails.
The screw heads are going to make the brick moulding stand off from the nailing fin.
That house wrap was suppose to be cut to form a flap that was set over the nailing fin not over it like that.
Did you set the nailing fin in a bed of caulking to seal out water and drafts?
Use long galvanized finish nails in predrilled holes in the brick moulding. The rough galvanizing will have more holding power. Just set the nail with a nail set and fill with latex caulking.
Make sure to also use a nail from the top and side at the corners.
Use vinyl brick moulding.
There is no need to leave a gap between the brick moulding and the window frame, at some point the caulking will fail and water will get trapped behind it.
 
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Old 04-27-14, 07:33 AM
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Thank you! I was going to cut rabbets on wood brickmolding to accommodate the fin thickness (plus screws, they don't stick out much though) as kindly suggested by XSleeper above. Will see if vinyl works as an option -- it's cheaper for sure. Yes, a good bead of sealant was applied under the fin. This is a long overdue replacement window, the house wrap is too damaged to cover the fin. I sealed the wrap around the rough opening with flashing tape.
 
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Old 04-27-14, 07:45 AM
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The "flap" Joe is talking about is only on top and you can still do that. As you apply your next course of flashing tape over the fin you can slit the housewrap on top (45 away from each corner), and fold that flap upward so that the flashing tape you apply on top will go over the top nailing fin, and directly onto the sheathing. That way when you fold that flap back down the WRB will overlap correctly on top. Roofing nails vs screws doesn't bother me much. But the bigger head of the roofing nail will cover the slotted hole better and will lay flatter.

If you don't want to cut the rabbet in the brickmould (which will recess it a bit) you can also cut a thin 1/8" x 3/4" shim to shim the area outside the nailing fin. That would also help the brickmould lay flat. If it tips out when you nail it down that can break open your miters.
 
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