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Installing a new service door in garage.


Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
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05-17-14, 02:29 PM   #1  
Installing a new service door in garage.

Doing this for some friends of ours. Sounds easy right? Except there is no door there now.

So, this involves removing some drywall, re-framing an opening and installing a header, cutting the steel siding, and setting the door. The only issue is the bottom sill. The garage floor slab is about 3" lower than the poured concrete foundation around it. My first thought was that I should cut the foundation down to the level of the of the slab so the threshold would be at the "normal" height. Our friend said "Why not just put the door on top of the foundation". I figured it would be too much of a tripping hazard, but I tend to over do things sometimes.

Is this one of those times? Should I be cutting it down, or just put the door on top of the foundation and call it good?


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05-17-14, 03:21 PM   #2  
I'd probably just put it on the foundation. Whats the height difference on the exterior?


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05-17-14, 04:56 PM   #3  
It's about 8" or so down to the ground. However, they are having a sidewalk/landing installed where the door will go.


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05-17-14, 06:05 PM   #4  
I still wouldn't go to all the work. I'd probably put a yellow caution stripe there and call it done. If the landing will be almost even with the threshold anyway.

I dunno if there is a code thing or not.

Sure, best practice might be to bring it down so there was less than an inch from the garage floor...but heck, I step up 4 inches to go in my front or back doors.


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05-17-14, 07:21 PM   #5  
First, make sure that curb isn't there to stop some drainage problem that you're not aware of. Assuming its only purpose is to elevate the framing from grade (5 stars for the guy that did that)....

I'd probably cut it down to make way for the door. Making some deep kerf cuts in it with a diamond blade... then knocking those thin slices out with a 5 lb hammer and cold chisel. Then use a cup grinder to grind down what's left. It will probably take a good 10 or 15 minutes or so of grinding. Have someone mist with water to keep the dust down. Wear some rain gear cuz you'll be covered in muddy concrete slurry. Check the opening with a 32" level and grind it so it's level.

Then when they pour the sidewalk outside, make sure that it's at least 1" below the surface of the garage floor. That's not code, just my personal opinion. You will need to support the sill nose of the new door with something... I like to rip a piece of composite 5/4 x 6 decking to fit (1x1) and then glue/caulk it in place.

Just lowered a door like this last weekend. Fortunately, it sat on a 4" solid cmu, so I was just able to knock the block out and grind it flat. A poured foundation will be a bigger challenge.

 
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05-18-14, 06:37 AM   #6  
This is a newer house, maybe around 2000, so it was built like that to raise it above grade and is tied to the rest of the house, so yeah, 5 stars for them! As mentioned, grade level is about 8-12" below the top of the foundation so the landing will be a bit lower as you mentioned, although that is not part of my job.

Thanks Sleeper for the cup grinder idea, I do not have one of those and could come in handy. And for mentioning about supporting the sill.

One thing I forgot to mention is the foundation is about 8" thick with only a 2x4 wall. IDK if this will change anybody's mind as far as the toe catching hazard.

So far we have:
1.5 cut it down
1 leave it.
(I count as .5 )


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05-18-14, 06:48 AM   #7  
I'll give you 10 more votes for cutting it down. The 8" wide foundation is pretty standard in a garage.

 
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05-18-14, 09:12 AM   #8  
Add my vote for cutting the foundation down ....... but I reserve the right to change my mind if I have to do the work

I've painted several houses where the garage door was installed on top of the foundation wall and while it was accessible, I always thought it was unhandy.


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05-18-14, 09:39 AM   #9  
Ahhh...the 8" width just put me in the cut it down camp as well.


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05-18-14, 12:14 PM   #10  
Anybody ever use reciprocating saw blades with carbide grit, or diamond coating for cutting concrete? I figured I would cut most of it with a diamond blade in my circular saw and grinder as Sleeper outlined, but I am wondering about the corners.


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05-18-14, 12:22 PM   #11  
I always used my angle grinder with a diamond masonry blade.


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