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Help Installing Window Casings


bainbridgematt's Avatar
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06-08-14, 11:39 AM   #1  
Help Installing Window Casings

So we just built a house and the builder only installed wood window sills (stool and apron). We talked with them about doing full casings on a few of the windows, but we either had to do the whole house or none of the house (silly I know). So anyway, I am planning to install full casing on a few of the windows. Right now the windows have a drywall wrap with the exception of the sill. There is about 5/8" showing of the window frame between the edge of the drywall and the window sash.

I have a couple of questions that I am hoping you smart people can answer for me.

1 - Can I just rip boards down to size and use them to cover the inside edge of the drywall? (i believe it's call the return). Or do I need to take out that drywall?

2 - We're talking about doing plantation shutters on a few windows. Should I case them first or just use the casings that come with plantation shutters.

Thanks for all your help in advance!

 
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06-08-14, 12:17 PM   #2  
Hopefully your window stools have horns on them that are long enough to go under the entire width of the casing that you apply to the wall.

I would take out the drywall, since the jambs you install will probably be 3/4" thick, so once you remove 1/2" of drywall that should still leave 3/8" around the window sash.

Shutters can go inside the jambs that you apply... however you want to make sure the jambs you install are shimmed so that they are perfectly plumb and parallel. The shutters will be plumb, level and square so you would want to coordinate with the shutter company to make sure that whatever you do it doesn't hose them as far as size, etc. is concerned.

 
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06-08-14, 12:25 PM   #3  
Thanks for the input. Unfortunately the stools are not long enough :-( I knew that going in though. I don't want to case all the windows in the house, but there are a few i want to do. I know that means ripping out the stool and apron, but it is what it is.

So when removing the drywall, I guess I have to assume there is a metal corner bead that I will have to cut out huh?

One place we want to do shutters is in the master bathroom, but it has two large picture windows that are each about 4-5 inches from the same corner of the bathroom so I am a little afraid that a full casing would look strange in there.

 
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06-08-14, 12:32 PM   #4  
yes, removing the corner bead is a good idea. The corner is not an issue, but you will want to make sure that the jambs you install on both windows are level with one another so that the heads of your casing are level across. You don't want one 1/4" higher than the other- since they are so close together that would be very noticeable. If they were 4 feet apart no one would know.

 
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07-01-14, 06:32 PM   #5  
So I am thinking in the master bath I will cave to case the two windows together as the stools will hit each other.

Another question though is that I've got two places where I've got two windows separated by about 7 inches do I have to case the two together. Should I remove the drywall between them and replace with a board?

 
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07-01-14, 06:49 PM   #6  
Without knowing what the width of your casing is, it's pretty hard to answer that. If the casing is 3 1/2" or less, I would case them individually, and the only thing you need to remove is the drywall jamb and the corner bead, not any of the drywall between the windows.

On a corner, it's pretty normal for the stool horns to miter together (which is why the windows should be level with one another) but the casing itself is usually far enough apart that they don't touch. If they do meet, cut each one to the same length individually before you attempt to miter them. You would miter them on a table saw and then glue and brad nail them together on the back side so that you can put the two pieces up as one.

 
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07-01-14, 06:54 PM   #7  
Sorry. Casing is 3.5". The stools would overlap if I don't case them as 1.

 
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07-01-14, 06:59 PM   #8  
It's close enough that you will have one continuous stool either way. But just because the stool is continuous doesn't mean you can't case them individually- if you have room.

I'd probably put the casing back to back if you have room for it, assuming it has a profile (not flat 1x4 stock) and provided it will still leave you with an additional 1/4" of reveal where the casing meets the jamb. If you don't have the width to do that, then you'd treat both windows as if they were one large opening, and just put the 4 pc of casing on the left, right, top, and bottom (apron) and then apply a mull cap, which would be your 7" or so, but planed down so as to be a bit thinner than the inside edge of your casing is.

 
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07-02-14, 05:16 AM   #9  
Not sure that I'll have enough room to do the reveal and still have space between the windows. So do I take out the drywall between the windows too then? Or so I just plane it super thing and put over the drywall? And does the mull cap have a reveal where it meets the jamb?

Sorry for all the noob questions, but I really appreciate your help!

 
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07-02-14, 05:29 AM   #10  
Yes the mull cap has the same reveal that the casing would... and yes I suppose you could remove the drywall as opposed to planing the wood down. You might try and air seal that space first with tyvek or poly before you trim it.

 
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