Prehung Door On Brick House- Space Showing


Old 08-28-14, 06:13 PM
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Prehung Door On Brick House- Space Showing

Hello. I had a old exterior back door that was wood. I removed it today and purchased a prehung exterior door. Removed old framing. Dry fit the prehung door and it went in great but on the outside there is about a two inch gap past the brick molding. I can literally see behind the brick wall. The threshold is the old wooden 2x8 but cut with a slant will probably have to rip this out but there is also a large gap under the threshold. Possibly need to stack 2 2x8 to build it up? Any remedies. from the dry wall to the brick is 7 inches... There is about a 2 inch gap between the actual door frame and brick.

Looks like we will be sleeping with no door on the back of the house tonight. If I build it out it will be past the metal plate on the threshold. Any ideas or advice someone can share?

I put the front door in and had no issue like this.
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Old 08-29-14, 04:29 AM
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Any way you can post pictures both inside and out so we can see what you see?
Old 08-29-14, 05:22 AM
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Is this a 32" door or 36"?
Old 08-29-14, 05:58 AM
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Sound like a door for a 2x4 wall inserted into a 2x6 wall. That would explain being able to see behind the brick when it is in place.
Old 08-29-14, 07:39 AM
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Yeah, it sounds like you got a door for a standard 4 9/16" wall, not for a 7" wall. When you know the exact wall thickness, it's "best" to special order a door for that exact thickness so that your sill will also be wide enough for the opening, not just buy one off the shelf.

If you were going to make that door work in the opening you have, it sounds to me like at a minimum you would need to get an aluminum sill nose extension to clip into the front of the threshold (assuming the front edge has the notch for that) so that it will hang slightly over the front of your 2x8.

You would probably also remove the brickmould (saving it) and then add X" (2 1/2"?) to the exterior of your door jamb so that the jamb is the right thickness for your wall. (measure interior side of drywall to exterior side of sheathing) Add that extension onto the outer side of the door jamb. Then put the brickmould back on. Your aluminum sill nose extension should be wide enough so that once it's clipped on, the brickmould will not stick past the front edge of it.

On bottom, yes, you probably would want to tear out your sloped sill and add framing to the bottom of the opening to raise it up so that it's level. This first layer of buildup would all be even with your exterior sheathing. A face trim (or apron... installed under the sill) can be added last, as needed. Once you get it built up to the right level you should be able to set a 2x8 on top as your sill. (or maybe even a 2x10 ripped to the right width you need). Ideally the top of this rough sill should be about 1/4" below your finished floor. The height from your rough sill to the top of your rough opening needs to be tall enough for the door to fit. Sometimes you need to trim a little bit off the header... other times there is a flat board under the header that you can remove.

If by 2" gap on each side, you are saying that the distance between your bricks is... say, 44" and the outside-outside measurement of your brickmould is only 40"... well then you might as well throw the brickmould away and buy some 5/4 x 6 PVC Azek and trim the door with that instead. You would rip the trim down to the right size on a table saw and install it just like you would the brickmould. If you intend to install a storm door on the opening, remember 2 things. You have to maintain the right size opening for your storm door (usually 36" x 80 1/4") and the face trim needs to be 1" thick (which is why you'd use 5/4 material for your face trim... it's just as thick as brickmould is.)
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