Door Pull issues with Jeld-wen Hollow Core Bifolds
#1
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Door Pull issues with Jeld-wen Hollow Core Bifolds
Hello,
First off I cannot believe I am even posting this. I hung new Jeld-wen Hollow Core Bifold doors. I replaced the door pulls with Allen + Roth 1.36-in Satin Nickel Square Cabinet Knobs.
The screws that were included were to short probably because they are meant for cabinets. I tried both 8-32x2 and 8-32/1.5. The 1.5" is to short, the 2" requires about 6 washers. I also noticed since these are hollow core doors there is slight flex when tightening. The pull also seems to slightly twist. If the knobs were not square I wouldn't care if they had a slight twist but since they are square it is noticeable.
So did I use the wrong replacement knobs? Are there specific knobs meant for bifold doors? How do I stop the flex when tightening? And how do I get rid of the knob from slightly twisting (liquid nail?, lol)
First off I cannot believe I am even posting this. I hung new Jeld-wen Hollow Core Bifold doors. I replaced the door pulls with Allen + Roth 1.36-in Satin Nickel Square Cabinet Knobs.
The screws that were included were to short probably because they are meant for cabinets. I tried both 8-32x2 and 8-32/1.5. The 1.5" is to short, the 2" requires about 6 washers. I also noticed since these are hollow core doors there is slight flex when tightening. The pull also seems to slightly twist. If the knobs were not square I wouldn't care if they had a slight twist but since they are square it is noticeable.
So did I use the wrong replacement knobs? Are there specific knobs meant for bifold doors? How do I stop the flex when tightening? And how do I get rid of the knob from slightly twisting (liquid nail?, lol)
#2
Should be able to get in 1 3/4 length. If not a wire stripper with a screw cutter on it will shorten the screws.
Shop Kobalt Wire Strippers at Lowes.com
Shop Kobalt Wire Strippers at Lowes.com
#3
I'd use the longer screws with a single large thin flat washer and cut them to length using a wire crimper with screw cutting holes. Like this...http://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD-Barrel-Crimper-13H883?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/13H883_AS03?$smthumb$
They also make large head cabinet knob screws that probably wouldn't need a washer.
The flex depends on how close to the solid edge you put them. Just snug them, don't over tighten. I don't think a dab of adhesive under the knob would hurt anything and would probably stop the twisting.
They also make large head cabinet knob screws that probably wouldn't need a washer.
The flex depends on how close to the solid edge you put them. Just snug them, don't over tighten. I don't think a dab of adhesive under the knob would hurt anything and would probably stop the twisting.
#4
What they use for cabinet pulls is called a truss head machine screw. For cutting you can allso put a nut on it, cut with a hacksaw, then run the nut off to dress the threads.
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Ended up cutting off the ends and using a 1" washer inside. I will probably end up adding glue to the backside of the knobs.
A little off topic but how important is it to paint the inside of the bi-folds. They are already premiered from Jeld-wen. The outside and sides have been double coated with SW ProClassic Acrylic-Alkyd.
A little off topic but how important is it to paint the inside of the bi-folds. They are already premiered from Jeld-wen. The outside and sides have been double coated with SW ProClassic Acrylic-Alkyd.
#7
Square and Oval knobs usually have a small barb at the base that bites into the wood, helping keep it aligned.
Either way some adhesive won't hurt.
Don't feel bad, I've been doing this for years and some knobs will just give you trouble. Threads are recessed too much or not enough, bad threads, etc. It's a pain. Most are standard, some are far from it.
Either way some adhesive won't hurt.
Don't feel bad, I've been doing this for years and some knobs will just give you trouble. Threads are recessed too much or not enough, bad threads, etc. It's a pain. Most are standard, some are far from it.
#8
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Primer's not designed to hold up to the elements like paint; it's meant to create a good bonding surface for paint so I would paint the doors as well, as Vic suggested.
#9
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I agree, paint the backside! I once worked for an outfit that never painted the backside of closet doors .... but that didn't make it right. While it might make financial sense not to paint the backside of a 1000 doors a year - you only have the one set. 1 coat of enamel is fine.