How to finish vinyl fin windows - casing/trim/sill?

Hi guys,

So I've got these vinyl windows flashed, nailed, siliconed, and insulated, and am ready to move on to finishing them.

Here's two pictures of where I'm at right now. As you can see, the windows don't take up the entire width of the window frame...leaving a gap between the edge of the window and the drywall.

Window Closed


Window Open


So is my next step to just cut some primed wood to the length from the edge of the window to the outer edge of the drywall? Then just surround the exterior with the 2.25" window trim?

Thanks for any tips on where to go from here

 

That will do it unless you decide you want a window stool but even that is basically the same.

 

A whole lot easier to finish, prime and paint the drywall first so there's no cutting in needed.
Stool is cut to fit first (the stool is inside, a sill is outside)
How long it's cut depends on how wide a casing you use, you want it to run past the casing by about 1/2 on each end.
You want that stool to sit up tight to the window frame.
To make it easy on you measure the opening and divide X 2 and mark the middle, do the same thing to the stool.
Now you can hold it up where it needs to go and mark the two outside edges where it's going to need to be cut, now measure the depth from the drywall to the window frame and mark that on the two outside edges. Connect the marks with a speed square, and cut out that area with a jig saw.
Test fit, I like to apply some latex caulking where the stool meets the window frame for one less place you may get air leaks.
Slide it in place and nail on the very outside edges where the nails will be covered up with the jamb trim.
Now cut the apron (the piece under the sill where it over hangs)
Most people use casing for the apron, for a more finished look the ends are cut at a slight angle, another way is to back cut it at a 45 and add a tiny piece of casing on the ends that gets glued on so the profile looks like an outside corner.
Once that's done you can rip the jamb pieces.
Always start at the top so the two side pieces will hold it up tight.
Then your ready for the casing.
I'd use 5-1/4 wide for the stool, any lumber yard, Lowes or HD will have it with a rounded or Roman Ogee outside edge.

 

Using a wider stool instead of picture framing (no stool, just jamb extentions) looks a whole lot better and gives the lady's a place to sit plants, knick knacks, Christmas candles ECT.

 

I also prefer the look of a stool versus the picture frame. What does the rest of the house have? Picture framing is a little quicker/easier .... not that installing a stool is difficult

 

jdlev,

I've found that it works well to put on the jamb, 1x4, 1x6, stool, or what have you... (ripped to width on a table saw) then apply a 1/2" x 3/4" baseshoe to cover any gap between the jamb and the window. This allows you to cut the jamb one width all the way around, assemble it like a box (nail 4 corners together before you put it in) then slide it into the rough opening, flush the face up with the wall surface (not necessarily pushing it tight against the window), then trim it with base shoe. You can caulk the jamb to the window BEFORE you apply the base shoe so that you don't have to caulk the base shoe to the window. Looks better, IMO. I've seen too many people caulk it and then slop white paint all over the white vinyl thinking it will match. It doesn't.

I will usually measure the window itself and make the box exactly that size so that once you install it and shim it, everything is symmetrical with the new window. When your 2 1/4" casing is applied, keep it 1/8" to 1/4" away from the inside perimeter of your new jamb, to create a step, or reveal there. If your trim is painted, that joint will get caulked.

 

Personally I think the jamb caulked to the window looks best BUT both the caulking and the painting needs to be neatly done! Sloppy work never looks good

 

Excellent point on the painting. I hadn't thought of that

And thanks for all the tips guys