We need to replace french doors due to dry rot. The frame is probably okay, but the whole existing structure is not operating smoothly.

Trying to visualize the process, adjustment within the existing frame is likely to be more challenging than doing prehung, but if I get stuck I can put back the current doors at the end of the day and continue working later.

What is the better strategy? Prehung, or slow and steady work within the existing frame?

 

Depends on the type of doors to some extent. If they are the typical cheapo big box type which are basically like two entry doors with manual throwbolts on the fixed door, then I'd just replace the whole unit. Quicker and easier.

Where would you buy 2 replacement doors anyway? If you could even get identical slabs, it would have to be a special order. If you are going to buy a pre-hung and then take the doors out, why not just replace the whole thing? It's only a couple of hours if you've ever hung a few doors in the past. You'll need a helper.

 

We're buying Rogue Valley doors, they do seem like just two slabs, unfinished. Not from Home Depot, but they are affordable. We will have to do all the finishing and hardware ourselves: http://www.roguevalleydoor.com/products/838

I have never done doors, and while I am trying to be as prepared as possible, my fear is that I get stuck on some problem with the new frame, and then I have an uncovered opening, maybe for days.

 

If you have a stucco exterior, it might be better for you to replace the doors only.
It will only take a few tools and some careful measurements.
Talk to the vendor and see if you can order the doors cut to size. With doors cut to size, you will still have plenty of work to do, but this will make it easier.

 

Even if you don't get it all done at once, get the old one out, then put the new one in, held temporarily with a few screws. That's for a full replacement.

I have to say, if you've never done a door, a french door slab replacement is not what to start out with. Level, square, and plumb is extremely critical. Much more so than a typical interior door for instance.

When you say hardware, you mean you have to bore the lockset holes and mortice for hinges? Brother, that's not something for a first timer unless you have a real carpenter that is helping you.

Just 2 slabs? What about the T astragal that needs to go on?

Sorry, I would NOT recommend you take this on. You could probably buy the pre-hung door somewhere and find a person to install it for maybe $400-500 or so. Seems like a lot I know, but it's better than a leaky, drafty door that doesn't function well.

Oh, and finally, if the old doors were all wood and rotted, what's to prevent the new ones from doing the same thing? If you really want a stained interior....I just have to suggest you keep saving some money and get something like an Anderson that is clad exterior and wood interior. You weren't going to stain/finish the outside also were you? What a maintenance hassle!

I know, prob not what you really wanted to hear, but I'm just being honest. I sold doors and windows for 5 years and dealt with homeowners, installers, and contractors every day. I've installed plenty of doors and what you propose as a first timer is just not a good idea.

My reply didn't go through the first time, so I just saw Brians reply.

I'm sorry, I disagree. Yes, it may only take a few tools, if you are skilled with them, but...it's still a big job for a first time door replacement. Not like replacing a damaged interior door slab where if you make a mistake there are ways to fix it pretty easily.

 

Don't be sorry Vic,
I forgot to mention the part where this could turn into a nightmare real quick
And "the few tools" cost a more than the doors.

Hanging doors is not as easy as it looks. Some might call it an art.

 

Exactly my point. Not everyone is Tom Silva or Norm Abrams.

You should see this rental I'm in. Sheetrock screws in the hinges! Radiused hinges in square mortices. Square hinges in radiused mortices so they sit proud of the frame. Jeez, when I first got here, the strike plates for the deadbolt and handle on the front door were reversed so the deadbolt didn't even function.

I'm no Pro, but I know what's done right and what's done wrong. I also know my limits on certain things.

 

You could always screw plywood over the opening but I agree with the others that installing double doors is harder than a single door and you do want it done right. One of these days I'm going to have to help my son remove the double doors on the back of his house and install them right.

If you do go with wood doors it's very important to seal the tops/bottoms to prevent them from wicking up any moisture! Wood doors that are clad on the exterior is preferable!

 

I own all the tools and know how to do it, but would avoid a slab door like the plague.
Got a picture of the outside of this door?
No one here even knows what's there for siding, or how yours was installed.
At least 85% or more percent of the time once I get a slider or French door out I find at least a rotten subfloor under it. Many times it's been more damage then that.
Main reasons, no flashing or sill pan, no support on the outside under the threshold, deck, stoop, patio was built to close to the threshold.
It should never ever be even with it!

 

For reference, it's on the ground floor, on a slab, aluminum siding. The current doors installation is terrible, it's leaking and uneven and hard to operate. And, there isn't sufficient rain cover for the doors.

But our top concern is actually security, and we haven't found brands who make this a priority and from astonished responses from vendors I kind of gave up on finding a whole kit.

We want two features: laminate glass and anti-kick-in reinforcement plates. Laminate glass doubles the price of a Marvin to almost 5K, and installing reinforcement plates on clad or in gaps between the door and the top jamb can void the warranty.

So we're in a bit of a predicament and that's how we ended up with plain wood slabs that have an option for laminate glass. And finding willing installers for anything less than a Marvin or Andersen kit is also challenging.

There is a Simpson option with water barrier that we may look into. Anyway, I will heed the advice here and find an installer.

 

Prehung French doors do not come as a "Kit".
Everything's already assembled, just slide the whole thing in the rough opening.
Unless you plan on adding bars over all the windows, what's to stop someone from breaking one or use a pry bar to snap off the latches and coming in that way?
There is no door or window that's going to stop a determined thief.
A properly built door does not rely on a cover over it.

 

I know that nothing can stop a determined burglar. We just want to deter opportunistic smash and grab, either by breaking the windows or kicking in the doors.

 

Ran into a similar "issue" with a client who wanted more security. I helped "resolve" the issue by putting her in contact with my iron guy...hung the french doors and allowed them to customize until they were satisfied...custom hinge work, wrought iron scribe over glass....etc etc etc...fort knox for a little piece of mind i guess. In the end i still say a marvin, simonton, pella anderson door would have worked just fine BUT it's not my house...

 

That crap keeps me employed...