Hi all, first post, I apologize for any grammar/etiquette errors.

I have a 35"X80" opening for a storm door. Most on the market seem to be either 32, 34, or 36 inches and the tolerance for other sizes is usually only a few eighths, so I am having real trouble figuring out what I need to purchase or how I need to proceed. I understand I can order a custom door but that usually adds a large amount to the total that I would rather not pay if I can avoid.

There are some older threads around this topic but I am a visual person and all the photos are dead, so I can't wrap my head around applying them to my situation.

Attached are photos that I feel explain the situation better than text would, but after compression are pretty horrible quality wise. The first photo is showing 35X80 for the door. The second photo is showing the wood trim around the door at 2 9/16" wide facing the door and 2.25" deep facing the door, not including weather stripping.

Thank you for any and all suggestions. If it matters, my wife and I would prefer a door with glass and ventilation.

 

It's a simple fix...depending on the tools you own or can borrow.

See the molding on the perimeter of the door? That's called brickmold. What needs to be done is wood needs to be attached on each side of the actual door to build out the depth to the same as the brickmold. It is normally ripped to size from a clean straight 2x4 so that it is about 1/2" narrower than the existing wood where the door and sidelights meet. Then when it is attached in the center of those areas, your opening will be 36" and you will have a slight "step" or reveal.

If you look at a similar door or even a single door that has a storm, you'll get a clearer picture of what I mean.

In fact, if you look at the measuring instructions for Andersen or Larson (2 big makers of storms), they have diagrams that will clarify. How to Buy - Measuring for a Storm Door - LARSON Storm Doors

If the entry door had been ordered prepped for a storm door, it would avoid all this.

 

How thick is the molding that covers the edge of the jamb? You may be able to remove it and either rip a 1/2" off of each one or replace it with a narrower one.

 

To address your measurement question--I'm assuming you measured the finished opening on the outside of the door. This includes the door stops (1/2" thick). The width of your actual door is a standard 36" so an off-the-shelf storm should fit once you rip the brick mold at the top to clear the stormdoor frame, or notch the backside so it overlays the frame.

I have a similar entrance and opted against using a storm, for aesthetics.

 

Guys guys...the entry door is not set up for a storm. Cutting brick mold or modifying the vertical frame (that's not trim...it's the actual frame) will cause interference with the handles most likely. Look at how little depth he has.

The ONLY correct way is to build out the vertical framing to match the depth of the BM. There may still be an issue with the threshold, but that can be addressed with an extension of some sort. That may be the hardest part as it looks like the brick comes right to the bottom of the door. Might need to do a glue and screw of something to the brick itself.

This is why I always recommended to people building or renovating, that they always spec a door as storm door ready or at least order the kit before doing the install. Even if they didn't plan for a storm right away. Couple of pre-primed pieces of wood, bag of screws and plugs, attach it and cover the screw heads and it's good to go. Also came with the threshold extension attached or as part of the kit.

Behrboy...one other thing to consider...how much sun does your door get? Any decent amount of sun with a full glass door will eat the paint off in a few years, even in winter (not that you really have those). The brown color doesn't help. You'd need some sort of door that can be ventilated or installed loosely so that the air can flow easily, which allows bugs access as well.

 

There's plenty of detailed threads on this topic if you just search for them.

 

I think I get what you are saying Gunguy45. Would I need a planer to get the 2X4 to the thickness of the brick mould? I have a table saw, I assume that is the tool to use to rip the 2x4 to width, but not sure what to do about the depth.

As far as sun, we face east with a neighbors house blocking the first few hours of sun and a large oak blocking the rest. there is some direct light, but not very much time wise. The front door in the previous post is highlighted in red on this sattelite photo to give you an idea.

 

Table saw will do just fine. You'll just need to rip a strip of the right depth off of a good 8 ft 2X4 or 2X6. The 2X is already 1 1/2" wide, so you just rip a piece the same depth as the flat part of the BM (which I think is 1 1/8 deep?). I believe my installer guys would use 2X6 because it was easier to handle after the first cut instead of dealing with a little 1/2 waste strip. Just rip with one mill edge against the fence, flip it and cut the other edge off. Now you have 2 pieces with a flat surface to go against the door frame, and a nice rounded edge which will be visible after the storm is installed. The rounded edge under the storm frame isn't an issue.

Your frame width is 2 9/16" and the opening is 35", so set a ripped piece 1/2" from the inside edge on both sides, and what do you have? 36", right?

You'll need to cut a beveled end at the bottom to match the sill or whatever you decide to use to fill the gap. And there will be a gap at the bottom since you have no extension on the sill. Gotta figure something for that. The top will just be a straight cut if the ends of the strip are a little rough. Prime and paint it, then countersink some holes and use 5-6 2/1/2" deck screws to attach to the frame with some caulk between butt joints at the top. Fill the holes, caulk all joints, touch up the paint, wait a few days, then install the storm.

Some people like to use a bead of construction adhesive under the extension, but it's not necessary with 6 screws holding it on.

I probably could have pulled out my saw and done most of it in the time it's taken me to type this.

Oh, there are different types of sill extensions. I don't think you could use the slip in type since the door is installed. They do make them that basically fit on top of the existing and are screwed or pop-riveted in place. Never used the latter.

 

I just had the same problem. I bought two 2x4x8's and cut them down the middle to match. I primed and painted them, then used some liquid nails and 6 long screws to attach. My opening was 35' and I got a 36' door. Here are some pics of my install today ...

Before ...


After ...

 

So many thanks to you two gunguy45 and apsuhead! Thanks for the guidance and photos. You took alot of the mystery out of it for me and I am hoping to get it done soon.