Had 'high pile' carpet installed yesterday and as a result the bedroom door has a moderate drag and not sure how I should go about removing a small amount of material to eliminate it? I have an assortment of different types of hand and power sanders; to include belt. Suggestions/comments appreciated!.

 

Assuming if it's a hollow core door the bottom hasn't be previously trimmed, I'd use a skil saw to cut off a half inch or so from the bottom of the door. Scoring the cut first with a utility knife along with masking tape will prevent chipping.

 

Yep. Build yourself a sled with a guide and clamp that to the door so as to make a nice straight cut with a skilsaw. Score the top side of door only. (Also the far edge of the door ). Cut to one side of cut line... better to stay away from cut line than to knick it. Use a good carbide finish blade, not a general blade. And then bevel the edges of the cut slightly with a sander, easing the cut edges ever so slightly.

 

Forced air HVAC?
Is so there needs to be at least 1/2 clearance from the floor for air flow.

 

It's a solid wood door. I am not clear what 'building a 'sled, or 'top side' of the door and 'far edge' of the door.

Suggestions and comments very helpful, not aware there should be min, of 1/2" gap between carpet and door, that would have required a great deal of sanding. I will be heading to local hardware to purchase the finishing blade, Wonder if I can accomplish same if I were to use an 8' metal straight edge and scribe a cut line approximately 1/2" above the bottom of the door and then off-set the metal guide to where the skilsaw plate would ride along the guide with the blade set to cut just above the cut line. If I understand correctly, it would be best after making the cut to slightly angle the bottom edge on side with the door closing??? Again, appreciate the suggestions!!

 

The gap under the door is necessary if your forced hot air heating does NOT have a return in that bedroom. Then undercutting the door is often used to provide a return path, but 1/2" would be a bare minimum.

Bud

 

If the door is laying flat on a pair of sawhorses... scoring the top of the door would be the side facing UP. The far edge would be the edge of the door that is farthest away from your hand as you begin to cut with the skilsaw.

If your saw has a guide, you can certainly use it. A sled is just a board like a piece of plywood for example, that has a stop fastened to it. By placing this sled on the door and clamping it so it can't move your saw can just slide along the stop. The metal guide plate of your saw will not scratch the finish on the door because it won't even touch the door... it will be sitting on the sled. If you only have one door to cut it may not make sense to make the sled. But if you can't cut a straight line, you may want to consider using one. If you don't use a sled you might want to put some blue tape or masking tape on the bottom of your saw so that it doesn't mar the finish on the door as you slide it across.

 

Now I understand, thank you very much for the clarification!!.

 

Or do like I have seen carpet installers do. Use the same blade they have used a hundred times before, just push hard as need, ignore the smell of burning wood from friction, and figure the customer is too dumb to notice the bottom of the door looks like ocean waves.

 

When the installers arrived in a beaten down, mid size, multi color, un-identifiable truck and shell, with the carpet and padding strapped to the top, I had concerns and not about to ask them to hack away at my brand new door, figured I could do better with my dull skilsaw blade. Kinda got the impression they were participants in a prison release program; having said that, I was very impressed with the lead installer and although he verbally abused his helper throughout he certainly appeared to know what he was doing, I was pleased with the outcome.