Adjusting Door Casing for Thicker Wall

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  #1  
Old 05-26-15, 09:16 AM
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Adjusting Door Casing for Thicker Wall

The rough opening for my bathtub is bigger than it's supposed to be. To resolve that issue, I may make opening/room smaller by adding 1 extra layer of drywall on that wall. What's the right way to adjust the door trim for the deeper wall? I'm not eager to replace the whole jamb and rehang the door. Will it look too shoddy if I just remove the door casing, add some filler wood between the jamb and casing? Should I attempt to line up the filler with the jamb to create a single seamless jamb or step it back to accent it?
 
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Old 05-26-15, 09:26 AM
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It all depends on your door framing. Many pre-hung doors have the trim slide into a slot so there is adjustment for varying wall thicknesses. If you're stick building the casing then it should be no big deal. The door frame will just be a bit wider but I doubt anyone would ever notice.
 
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Old 05-26-15, 10:09 AM
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IMO it's better to leave a small revel with the filler piece especially if it's painted - gives you a better surface to caulk. With stained/natural trim I think it looks neater with the revel than having a crack on an even plane.
 
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Old 05-26-15, 10:14 AM
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Thank you. On doors with a split/sliding casing, which half is the stop usually attached to? The hinge half or the other half?
 
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Old 05-26-15, 10:30 AM
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The hinge is on the fixed side of a split jamb.

I'm fairly certain that is correct, I'm a painter not a carpenter
 
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Old 05-26-15, 05:52 PM
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If you have a choice, a jamb extension should go on the side of the door without the hinges and latch. I agree you would leave a 3/16" reveal from the inside edge of the jamb to the jamb extension... and another 3/16" reveal from the inside edge of the jamb extension to the inside edge of the casing. That will probably mean new casing, yours will be too short to do that.
 
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