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Installing pre-hung door where door jamb is thicker than door frame opening.

Installing pre-hung door where door jamb is thicker than door frame opening.

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  #1  
Old 08-25-15, 05:51 AM
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Installing pre-hung door where door jamb is thicker than door frame opening.

The prehung door's jambs are 1/2" thicker than the door frame opening.

should i install the hinge side (inside) flush and leave the excess jamb on the outside and hide that excess with door moulding? Im going to need moulding on both sides anyway.

Or should i split the difference between the inside and the outside (1/4" on both inside and outside of door).

I've heard the door has to be flush with the sheetrock.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-25-15, 05:55 AM
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Welcome to the forums!
You want the hinge side flush with the wall. That allows the door to open all the way.
 
  #3  
Old 08-25-15, 05:59 AM
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Guessing you mean wider, not thicker.
Inside or outside door?
How wide is the jambs?
What's the wall make up?
Mobil home?
 
  #4  
Old 08-25-15, 06:07 AM
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I mis read the post If the jamb is to wide - can you cut it down to fit?
 
  #5  
Old 08-25-15, 06:21 AM
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the jamb is 4.5" wide. the door opening is 4" wide.

Yes the jamb is 1/2" wider or thicker than the opening.

Inside door - for a bathroom.

The wall is a metal stud and a wooden stud behind it.

It's loft style apartment.

Cutting the jamb down by a 1/2" sounds like a lot of work.
 
  #6  
Old 08-25-15, 06:28 AM
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Cutting it would be less work and no extra materials needed.
 
  #7  
Old 08-25-15, 06:30 AM
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I just remeasured. The door jamb is 4.5" and the door opening is 3.75". So the excess will be 3/4".
 
  #8  
Old 08-25-15, 06:38 AM
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I'm planning on buying moulding either way... so i'm not concerned about extra material cost.

My local hardware store wont cut the jambs b/c they already have primer on them. I do have access to a table saw but i have zero experience using it. So my confidence level on cutting those jambs straight is not very high at all.
 
  #9  
Old 08-25-15, 07:00 AM
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Table saw would be best but it also can be done with a ciruler saw with an edge guide.
A door with the right width jambs could have been ordered.
 
  #10  
Old 08-25-15, 07:22 AM
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So to cut the jambs with a table saw, i'd have to

1) remove the door from the jambs.
2) take the jambs apart. looks like they are attached using a large staple gun.
3) cut it
4) reassemble with wood screws?

What is the downside of having the outside jamb stickout a little from the drywall and covering it with moulding?
 
  #11  
Old 08-25-15, 09:17 AM
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Normally the pieces of jamb are just nailed together. Screws are often too big.
The only downside to building out one side of the jamb with wood is it will look strange. If I did that, I'd probably do it on the inside of the bath rm so it won't be noticeable when compared to other door openings.
 
  #12  
Old 08-25-15, 10:34 AM
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It would be more work and more difficult to get straight edges but you could lay the jamb on the ground and take off the excess with a belt sander. I wouldn't but one could....
 

Last edited by stickshift; 08-26-15 at 07:31 AM.
  #13  
Old 08-26-15, 04:28 AM
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So you guys have convinced me to cut the jambs down to size using a table saw. The door opening is three different sizes.

hinge side : 3 15/16
knob side: 3 3/4
header side: 4 1/8

should i cut all to 3 3/4 and fill in the gaps with wood putty? or cut each side to measurement?
 
  #14  
Old 08-26-15, 04:41 AM
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Why is there so much difference between the header and the studs?

You want the jamb to be the same width on all 3 pieces so the casing will attach correctly.
 
  #15  
Old 08-26-15, 05:41 AM
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This is when I back up and try and figure out went so very wrong with that framing job and possibly fixing that first.
Was there a door there already, or just an opening?
 
  #16  
Old 08-26-15, 07:12 AM
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Pre-Hung Door

Is this a pre-hung door unit with split jambs including attached casing?
 
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