Help please - replacing sliding patio door Andersen 100
#1
11-16-15, 07:47 AM
Help please - replacing sliding patio door Andersen 100
Hi everyone! I'm replacing an original Andersen sliding patio door on my house (1979). I'm having a hard time believing it was a custom order but here is my situation...
I have a rough opening of 74" x 82 1/2". I do have the casing off and thats what I can tell for a rough opening. Should my rough opening be larger than that?
Minimum rough opening for an Andersen 100 series stock door that we want is 72" x 83".
Price wise to get a custom sized door for that is $400 more!
Is it possible to cut out another 1/2" of the header to fit the stock door in? (Probably not the best option is it)
I have a rough opening of 74" x 82 1/2". I do have the casing off and thats what I can tell for a rough opening. Should my rough opening be larger than that?
Minimum rough opening for an Andersen 100 series stock door that we want is 72" x 83".
Price wise to get a custom sized door for that is $400 more!
Is it possible to cut out another 1/2" of the header to fit the stock door in? (Probably not the best option is it)
#2
11-16-15, 08:53 AM
Group Moderator
I'd suggest you quit looking at the 100 series and get the 200 or 400 series door. The height is not a problem as they are available for 72x83 openings. The 74" rough opening would be a custom size as that is no longer a standard size. But it isn't worth it to get a custom width for the extra 2".
The 200 series permashield and narrowline doors actually measure 82 3/8" tall, so they should just fit without any major modifications.
The 200 series permashield and narrowline doors actually measure 82 3/8" tall, so they should just fit without any major modifications.
#3
11-16-15, 09:00 AM
The purpose of the rough opening is to provide clearance to allow for squaring and leveling the door. If your rough opening is square and level, I would call Anderson and tell them your problem and see if they will tell you the maximum height allowed during manufacturing for the door you want. Maybe it is less than your current rough opening and you are good to go.
If there is a Anderson dealer nearby, maybe they will allow you to measure door heights for your model in stock and you can select the shortest.
While I don't see a problem with notching the header to gain height, it requires changing the trim on all three sides of the door inside and outside. You may have custom trim that's obsolete. Hence, the problem never ends. Good luck.
If there is a Anderson dealer nearby, maybe they will allow you to measure door heights for your model in stock and you can select the shortest.
While I don't see a problem with notching the header to gain height, it requires changing the trim on all three sides of the door inside and outside. You may have custom trim that's obsolete. Hence, the problem never ends. Good luck.
#5
11-16-15, 09:21 AM
Group Moderator
They aren't pure garbage like the 100 series is. Ok sorry that was a bit strong... not supposed to bash products. The 100 series is a large dropoff in quality from the 200 series. Its a low cost option meant to compete with vinyl doors.
If you are used to the quality and feel of your existing 200 or 400 series door, I think you would be quite disappointed in the quality, feel, and durability of a 100 series door. Its a real step backwards.
If you are used to the quality and feel of your existing 200 or 400 series door, I think you would be quite disappointed in the quality, feel, and durability of a 100 series door. Its a real step backwards.
#7
11-20-15, 05:54 AM
So I've done some checking at the local lumber yards and at Home depot. Looks like I can get a Andersen 200 series for similar price of a 100 series. The 200 also looks like it may fit in my rough opening better.
Any drawbacks to purchasing from a Home Depot?
Any drawbacks to purchasing from a Home Depot?
