French Doors

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  #1  
Old 01-23-16, 01:39 PM
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French Doors

So we have a really nice deck, and one small 32" door leading out to it.

I really would like to open up our huge deck to the living room/kitchen/dining area (its one large living space).

There are 2 large windows in the dining room that I was thinking we could knock out and use as one exit to the deck.

The window wide extreme edge to edge is 77"

Will this be too wide to use a standard pre-hung french door?

I was looking online at the Home Depot and Lowes for the rough cut size for different products, but didnt really find that much info.

Thanks
 
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Old 01-23-16, 01:51 PM
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I had the French doors to my deck removed and replaced with a sliding door. Opening the second door was a real pain as it would bash into my television.

You would frame in the opening and then install the new door. You might have a small problem matching the outside siding but could probably use wider trim boards to cover the additional opening. I really don't think it would be a problem at all.

Some pictures from both the inside and outside would help.
 
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Old 01-23-16, 02:16 PM
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No pictures so hard to make suggestions.
Why not install out opening french doors instead of a slider?
 
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Old 01-23-16, 02:43 PM
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Why not install out opening french doors instead of a slider?
In my case, I never thought of outswinging doors. Also, I have problems with flies and I NEED a screen when the door is open. Swinging screen doors don't cut it for me and neither do roller screens. The slider was the best option in my opinion.
 
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Old 01-23-16, 03:01 PM
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A 77" opening is good. Its easier to make a large opening smaller. Its harder to make a small opening bigger. In your case, the correct sized header is already in place... if its high enough is the next question. But it should be no problem.
 
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Old 01-23-16, 03:42 PM
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There are 2 large windows in the dining room...The window wide extreme edge to edge is 77"
What is the measurement between the two windows?
I'm wondering if you have a continuous header across the 77" span. It would make sense that you do, but you never know.
 
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Old 01-24-16, 07:42 AM
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I am still in the process of moving, so I cant find my camera or the cable to connect my phone to the computer to download the pictures.

As soon as I do I will post up some pictures.

The other problem is we dont live in the house yet, we are in apartment until the reno work I am doing is done, haha, so I cant just walk into the dining room and measure haha.

If I remember right the space between the windows is 8-9" and the top of the window is 78" or 80"

I will double check next weekend when I go work on the house. and maybe get some pictures
 
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Old 02-17-16, 03:01 PM
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So I finally got started.

I measured again and from the floor to the top edge of the window is 81"

so it would be 77"W x 81"H opening

each window itself is 34.5" wide x 57" tall

The windows to the left of this picture are the ones I am talking about:



and here is how it looks on the outside, I thought I had taken a better picture, but guess not.

 
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Old 02-17-16, 03:17 PM
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Should work just fine. You might want to measure from the bottom of the glass to the floor on the inside... and compare that with the exterior measurement to the deck. You definitely don't want the decking to be above your subfloor.
 
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Old 02-17-16, 06:23 PM
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Cool,

I'll check out that measurement.

If I remember right the deck is acouple inches lower than the existing door's threshold

Thanks
 
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Old 02-17-16, 06:44 PM
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My concern was if the window you want to remove is 2 windows side by side or 1 unit.

I would assume the header above the window is continuous, but if not it will have to be replaced to span the full width.

X is good with windows, maybe he knows if a split header is unlikely or not.
 

Last edited by Handyone; 02-17-16 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 02-17-16, 08:05 PM
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Yeah Brian makes a good point. Since those windows are trimmed separately, the could very well be load bearing studs between them, separate headers. An easy way to tell would be to go outside and pop off that middle piece of trim... and maybe the top piece as well. You might be able to see the header through the rough opening (the space between the window jamb and the framing) and you would want to see if it runs all the way through.

Its still doable either way.. but it sure would save some work if the header spans both openings.
 
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Old 02-17-16, 08:43 PM
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And just to add...please don't buy a cheap door. Andersen would be my first choice, with Marvin, Pella, and Jeld-Wen on the list. Expect to pay $1500-2000 depending on options. No $600 off the rack door is worth all the hassle.
 
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Old 02-18-16, 08:31 AM
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Thanks for the input guys.

I will be replacing the exterior window trim on the rest of the house anyways, the previous owner didnt really take care of the house, so most of it is rotted.

Not sure why they used cheap wood on the window trim but used hardy siding.

Anyways, while I replace the trim, I will just pop that top piece off and check.

If there is a load bearing stud between them, what extra would I need to do? Beef up the studs to the left and right of the future door opening and add a single header??


As far as a cheap door. I was looking for a better one as far as energy efficiency/sealing.
My wife is the penny pincher in our family so it may take some convincing.

Right now we are still in the conceptual phase, I have found a couple more things the inspector didnt find that I have to do to the house before we move in. So the French doors might get pushed back... shame
 
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