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Replacing pocket door with prehung swinging door


TasteeWheat1's Avatar
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02-22-16, 12:59 PM   #1  
Replacing pocket door with prehung swinging door

Hi there --

We're remodeling a bathroom and want to replace a pocket door with a prehung, swinging door. Since it was a pocket door, the wall uses split studs. Can I attach the prehung frame to the split stud, or do I need to replace a split stud with a traditional stud?

Thanks,
Eric

 
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02-22-16, 02:39 PM   #2  
Need a picture.
Going to have to measure the width, height, width of the rough framing to see what needs to be done to make a prehung fit.

 
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02-22-16, 02:43 PM   #3  
You could, but it would not be very stable at all. When the door slams that side would shake. If that is the hinge side you have nothing to put a 3" screw for the hinges into. IMO you should remove the old slider frame and reframe your ro.

You could fill the split stud with a rip, but it will be unstable.

 
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02-22-16, 02:44 PM   #4  
I wouldn't attach a door frame to the split studs without reinforcement; they are barely strong enough to support the drywall. You should have about an inch and half between the two splits. I'd put a 2x6 or 2x8 longways into the gap, fastening it with screws, toenail fashion top and bottom, and then drill from the outside through the split studs and fasten into the sides of the 2x that way. You may need some thin shims. If you do it right near the edge, the casing will cover the screws and you won't have to patch the drywall. Then you could fasten the jamb to the edge of the 2x.

 
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02-22-16, 02:45 PM   #5  
I don't have a picture right now, unfortunately. It's 4.5 inch walls. Rough cut is 25.75 x 81.75. The prehung is being made to fit that rough. One the hinge side, there's a stud to attach two, but on the non-hinge side is a split stud encased in metal brackets, like this http://i.stack.imgur.com/vHtst.jpg
Can I attach the prehung frame to those metal brackets or should I take them down and replace with a stud?

 
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02-22-16, 04:46 PM   #6  
If you've got the door ordered to fit the opening then you might as well just rip a board to fit inside the split stud opening and screw it together. Try to angle at least one screw into the floor and header. When you screw it together make sure your wall thickness is consistent all the way around the opening.

 
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02-23-16, 09:29 AM   #7  
We looked at the project again last night. We can get one half of the split stud out and we'll put in a 2x3 there, toenailed to the floor and ceiling beam. Then we'll back it up with a 2x4 behind it and should be good.

 
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