Installing new doors/jambs in steel-framed walls.
#1
04-09-16, 08:26 AM
Installing new doors/jambs in steel-framed walls.
My house has metal stud-framed walls. I've ripped out the existing (steel) interior door jambs because they were ugly and busted. But I'm unsure of how to go about installing new prehung doors. I've heard that attaching a wood door jamb to the metal studs won't work because the screws into the steel studs will strip out, and that the solution is to line the rough opening with wood blocking (plywood perhaps). But doesn't this just replicate the problem? The blocking, just like the door jamb, has to be secured to the metal somehow.
Note that, because this isn't a new build, I can't come at the blocking from inside the wall (thus anchoring the screw head against the steel) without tearing up the drywall.
So what can I do? Just screw a wood jamb into the steel and cross my fingers? Rip out the rough opening and install a wood frame? Install a metal door jamb?
Note that, because this isn't a new build, I can't come at the blocking from inside the wall (thus anchoring the screw head against the steel) without tearing up the drywall.
So what can I do? Just screw a wood jamb into the steel and cross my fingers? Rip out the rough opening and install a wood frame? Install a metal door jamb?
#2
04-09-16, 08:58 AM
Member
Post a picture so we can see what your seeing.
May need to use this type screw after predrilling a through
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12-2.../100145370hole in the wood.
May need to use this type screw after predrilling a through
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12-2.../100145370hole in the wood.
#4
04-09-16, 05:43 PM
How large are the rough openings compared to the overall door and jamb assembly?
If you have enough room, you can line the steel with 3/4" pine or plywood screwed and adhered to the steel with polyurethane const. adhesive..
You are probably going to end up applying adhesive to your casings to get them to attach to the drywall. Square up the door assembly well and with adhesive on the casings you can clamp them across the depth of the opening with a few short bar clamps on each side.
You can use the trim screws that are designed for steel stud assemblies except that they will leave a larger head hole to fill than a trim nail would. If the doors and casings are painted, filling the holes is not such a big issue but if they are natural finish the larger holes will pose more of a finishing concern.
If you have enough room, you can line the steel with 3/4" pine or plywood screwed and adhered to the steel with polyurethane const. adhesive..
You are probably going to end up applying adhesive to your casings to get them to attach to the drywall. Square up the door assembly well and with adhesive on the casings you can clamp them across the depth of the opening with a few short bar clamps on each side.
You can use the trim screws that are designed for steel stud assemblies except that they will leave a larger head hole to fill than a trim nail would. If the doors and casings are painted, filling the holes is not such a big issue but if they are natural finish the larger holes will pose more of a finishing concern.
#5
04-09-16, 06:14 PM
Group Moderator
Yeah I would also suggest 3/4 plywood glued and screwed (in pairs) with fine thread drywall screws.
#7
04-10-16, 02:03 PM
Group Moderator
Your plywood rips will be 4 1/2" wide, like your wall is. Rather than putting 1 screw every 16" in the center of the stud... put 2 screws (in pairs) every 16", placing them closer to the edges of the studs.
#8
04-10-16, 02:31 PM
I see. Many thanks for sharing your wisdom. Any recommendations on the thickness and/or type of plywood I should use? (also, btw, the rough opening is just a hair under 3 7/8" wide.)
#10
04-18-16, 04:55 PM
I went with 1x6 poplar to line the rough opening, secured with countersunk lath screws. At the two joints, I notched the adjoining boards to fit them together. Simple and sturdy and left me with just enough room to fit the door in. Thanks for all the advice!
