Pella leaky window?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 25
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Pella leaky window?
I am in the process of looking at a foreclosure that is about 12-13 years old and had Pella windows installed. I have read about some of the problems of the older windows and concerned about that. I walked through the house and all the windows that are movable had the pain peeled away where the upper and lower window meet (so along where the latch is). It is across the entire strip and has some black spots.
I took my keys and pushed on it a little and didn't notice any rot. Some of the windows were not latched so I am wondering if this is from someone leaving the windows unlatched and just some moisture from the winter etc or a bigger problem. I will try to get some pictures tomorrow.
Anything else I shoud look for on the windows when I go back?
Thank you
I took my keys and pushed on it a little and didn't notice any rot. Some of the windows were not latched so I am wondering if this is from someone leaving the windows unlatched and just some moisture from the winter etc or a bigger problem. I will try to get some pictures tomorrow.
Anything else I shoud look for on the windows when I go back?
Thank you
#2
Could be a sign that they had a lot of condensation on the glass in the winter. Yes, might have something to do with them not being kept locked. The bottom edges of the glass on any double hung will be the coldest and will get a little condensation in the winter. Multiple factors contribute to the condensation... high humidity in the house is the most likely culprit... (esp bedrooms, bathrooms, kitchen, bath). Also when curtains or blinds are kept shut, the heat and warm air from the house is blocked from warming the glass, so opening blinds and curtains helps. Closing blinds just makes the glass colder which makes it more likely that there will be condensation. Moving air helps too. If there is a humidifier on the furnace, it needs to be turned way down as the temperature outside drops.
#3
Forum Topic Moderator
all the windows that are movable had the pain peeled away where the upper and lower window meet
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 25
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for the replies.
Is this something to be concerned about or is it a simple fix of sanding and repainting the area?
I am guessing there is no good way to test for condensation or leaking given it is summer out now.
Is this something to be concerned about or is it a simple fix of sanding and repainting the area?
I am guessing there is no good way to test for condensation or leaking given it is summer out now.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 25
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I was able to get into the house and this is what every bedroom window looks like. Since it is a forclosure I believe the house has been unoccupied for a few months in the winter and not sure the windows were fully closed and latched and obviously the heat was turned off. It didn't seem like the wood was in bad shape wondering if I could just sand and paint it or should I be concerned.
Also the house was built in 2003 I know Pella had some window problems I wasn't sure what to look out for.
How do I tell if I have proline or if the windows are impacted?
Thanks
Also the house was built in 2003 I know Pella had some window problems I wasn't sure what to look out for.
How do I tell if I have proline or if the windows are impacted?
Thanks

#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 25
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
When you sand and paint do you remove the entire window? Seems like it pulls out from the top for cleaning and then you can angle to remove sashes and window.
Also do you use latex or oil?
Also do you use latex or oil?
#9
Forum Topic Moderator
I generally prime/paint them in place as it's quicker that way although you might be able to do a better job with them removed. If the wood has water stains it's best to use an oil base primer to seal them. I prefer to use waterborne enamel for the top coat as it dries hard like oil base, doesn't yellow, dries fast and cleans up with water. While some latex enamels are ok, the cheaper ones tend to stick.
If the windows are currently coated with oil base enamel you need to either stick with oil or prime them completely with oil before switching to latex. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...latex-oil.html
If the windows are currently coated with oil base enamel you need to either stick with oil or prime them completely with oil before switching to latex. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...latex-oil.html
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 25
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I had a contractor come out to look at some dryvit issues and he looked at the windows and said they all need to be replaced.
I know they are in the business to sell but if the wood is in decent shape is there any reason to replace or just sand / paint and see what happens?
I know they are in the business to sell but if the wood is in decent shape is there any reason to replace or just sand / paint and see what happens?
#12
Your windows have insulated glass and are not that old. If $50 worth of paint makes them look nice, I would certainly not replace them for no reason.