Dealing with Blind Stops
#1
07-04-16, 05:58 PM
Dealing with Blind Stops
Folks,
First, in full disclosure, everything I know about windows, I've learned this weekend! Here's where I'm at.
1) Because the sill and subsills are in good shape, I really was leaning towards to a pocket install instead of a full frame.
2) My wife and I own 3 rentals and have day jobs. I'm no skilled carpenter, but I have tools and enough smarts to do a pocket install. I would like to learn how to do this myself, as I need to replace windows in my other rentals as well.
3) I would rather pay someone, than to save money and have something I'm not proud of.
4) The house will need sided as well.
5) I was hoping to use one of those vinyl sill covers to make the sill look new, until I realized there's a subsill as well. I suppose I could have both wrapped with aluminum instead by a contractor, unless someone has a better idea.
6) I was going to use the 1x pvc board to replace the trim.
7) With all that done, the only thing left to deal with are the nasty, peeling blind stops. I thought I could cut those off, flush with the jam and then fashion some new ones from the 1x PVC boards. I thought that I would cut those off, install the window from the outside, and then install new stops.
What will and will not work? I've watched plenty of videos on pocket installs and no one really deals with the outside. They just drop the window in, install the screws and call it a day! What can a DIYer do or is this beyond the DIYer?
BTW, the "x" in one of the photos, marks the spot of the blind stop in case you can't see it. The other photo is included to give you an idea of what the trim around the window looks like. That window is not the same as the other photo. This one has the storm window in it yet. You might have to zoom a bit.
Any help would surely be appreciated!
Mike
First, in full disclosure, everything I know about windows, I've learned this weekend! Here's where I'm at.
1) Because the sill and subsills are in good shape, I really was leaning towards to a pocket install instead of a full frame.
2) My wife and I own 3 rentals and have day jobs. I'm no skilled carpenter, but I have tools and enough smarts to do a pocket install. I would like to learn how to do this myself, as I need to replace windows in my other rentals as well.
3) I would rather pay someone, than to save money and have something I'm not proud of.
4) The house will need sided as well.
5) I was hoping to use one of those vinyl sill covers to make the sill look new, until I realized there's a subsill as well. I suppose I could have both wrapped with aluminum instead by a contractor, unless someone has a better idea.
6) I was going to use the 1x pvc board to replace the trim.
7) With all that done, the only thing left to deal with are the nasty, peeling blind stops. I thought I could cut those off, flush with the jam and then fashion some new ones from the 1x PVC boards. I thought that I would cut those off, install the window from the outside, and then install new stops.
What will and will not work? I've watched plenty of videos on pocket installs and no one really deals with the outside. They just drop the window in, install the screws and call it a day! What can a DIYer do or is this beyond the DIYer?
BTW, the "x" in one of the photos, marks the spot of the blind stop in case you can't see it. The other photo is included to give you an idea of what the trim around the window looks like. That window is not the same as the other photo. This one has the storm window in it yet. You might have to zoom a bit.
Any help would surely be appreciated!
Mike
#2
07-05-16, 04:43 AM
Member
Is the wood rotten or just in horrible shape?
What type siding are you going to be using?
Any plans for a new roof?
Removing the old siding before installing the new?
Bringing the wiring up to modern codes?
Yes, there's reasons for the unrelated sounding questions.
Just a few of the may issues you may be facing:
Unless that home has been rewired in the past 10 or so years, my guess would be it still may have ungrounded outlets, way to few outlets, bathrooms and kitchen on the same circuit as other rooms and may only be 15 amp with no GFI's undersized service entrance among the many other wiring issues you may or many not have.
Lack of proper insulation and air sealing in the walls.
How does that tie into a siding job? All these issues can be dealt with by removing the old siding first.
How does the roof have anything to do with a siding job? Your gables have no over hang, so there's no great good looking way to install the needed J molding at the tops of the newly sided walls without custom bending some coil stock so it slides in under the shingles and come out over the J molding.
All your window and door trims and sills will need to be built out before wrapping with coil stock so it's not recessed.
The way a window is wrapped is you use a sawsall to make a cut between the brick molding and the sill and cut into the jamb, metal gets bent the shape of the sill and gets notched on the ends so it can slide in under the brick molding and into the slots in the jambs.
Then a piece gets bent in sort of a lazy Z shape to cover up the stops.
Lastly the brick molding gets bent starting on the sides first, then the top.
Gutters need to come down so the fashias can be wrapped.
PS No way would I be using any vinyl covers for any of the trim!
What type siding are you going to be using?
Any plans for a new roof?
Removing the old siding before installing the new?
Bringing the wiring up to modern codes?
Yes, there's reasons for the unrelated sounding questions.
Just a few of the may issues you may be facing:
Unless that home has been rewired in the past 10 or so years, my guess would be it still may have ungrounded outlets, way to few outlets, bathrooms and kitchen on the same circuit as other rooms and may only be 15 amp with no GFI's undersized service entrance among the many other wiring issues you may or many not have.
Lack of proper insulation and air sealing in the walls.
How does that tie into a siding job? All these issues can be dealt with by removing the old siding first.
How does the roof have anything to do with a siding job? Your gables have no over hang, so there's no great good looking way to install the needed J molding at the tops of the newly sided walls without custom bending some coil stock so it slides in under the shingles and come out over the J molding.
All your window and door trims and sills will need to be built out before wrapping with coil stock so it's not recessed.
The way a window is wrapped is you use a sawsall to make a cut between the brick molding and the sill and cut into the jamb, metal gets bent the shape of the sill and gets notched on the ends so it can slide in under the brick molding and into the slots in the jambs.
Then a piece gets bent in sort of a lazy Z shape to cover up the stops.
Lastly the brick molding gets bent starting on the sides first, then the top.
Gutters need to come down so the fashias can be wrapped.
PS No way would I be using any vinyl covers for any of the trim!
#3
07-06-16, 02:30 PM
Wow - Thank you for all the comments and thought provoking questions. Since there were some many, I thought it might be easier to paste you response and address each in turn below. I've Italicized my answers/questions.
Is the wood rotten or just in horrible shape?
Wood is actually in very good shape, it simply has lost its paint.
What type siding are you going to be using?
Planning to use the best vinyl I can afford.
Any plans for a new roof?
Absolutely, a 30-year dimensional most likely.
Removing the old siding before installing the new?
Plan is to remove old.
Bringing the wiring up to modern codes?
Stuff is up to code, but will address what needs addressed to make sure it can be rented.
Yes, there's reasons for the unrelated sounding questions.
Just a few of the may issues you may be facing:
Unless that home has been rewired in the past 10 or so years, my guess would be it still may have ungrounded outlets, way to few outlets, bathrooms and kitchen on the same circuit as other rooms and may only be 15 amp with no GFI's undersized service entrance among the many other wiring issues you may or many not have.
Lack of proper insulation and air sealing in the walls.
How does that tie into a siding job? All these issues can be dealt with by removing the old siding first.
How does the roof have anything to do with a siding job?
aYour gables have no over hang, so there's no great good looking way to install the needed J molding at the tops of the newly sided walls without custom bending some coil stock so it slides in under the shingles and come out over the J molding.
I've included a couple of pics to give you a better look at the gables. Perhaps by "no" overhang you're including "minimal" overhang. It looks as though there is about 4-5" and they are lined with what looks like crown molding.
All your window and door trims and sills will need to be built out before wrapping with coil stock so it's not recessed.
Not sure I follow here. I was concerned about the windows looking "sunken" if I installed new siding over the existing. But with a "rip off", I don't see that being a problem. Could you elaborate on what you mean by "built out" and why that would be needed.
The way a window is wrapped is you use a sawsall to make a cut between the brick molding and the sill and cut into the jamb, metal gets bent the shape of the sill and gets notched on the ends so it can slide in under the brick molding and into the slots in the jambs.
Then a piece gets bent in sort of a lazy Z shape to cover up the stops.
Lastly the brick molding gets bent starting on the sides first, then the top.
Gutters need to come down so the fashias can be wrapped.
PS No way would I be using any vinyl covers for any of the trim!
Why is that?
Thank you so much for all of your time.
Mike
Is the wood rotten or just in horrible shape?
Wood is actually in very good shape, it simply has lost its paint.
What type siding are you going to be using?
Planning to use the best vinyl I can afford.
Any plans for a new roof?
Absolutely, a 30-year dimensional most likely.
Removing the old siding before installing the new?
Plan is to remove old.
Bringing the wiring up to modern codes?
Stuff is up to code, but will address what needs addressed to make sure it can be rented.
Yes, there's reasons for the unrelated sounding questions.
Just a few of the may issues you may be facing:
Unless that home has been rewired in the past 10 or so years, my guess would be it still may have ungrounded outlets, way to few outlets, bathrooms and kitchen on the same circuit as other rooms and may only be 15 amp with no GFI's undersized service entrance among the many other wiring issues you may or many not have.
Lack of proper insulation and air sealing in the walls.
How does that tie into a siding job? All these issues can be dealt with by removing the old siding first.
How does the roof have anything to do with a siding job?
aYour gables have no over hang, so there's no great good looking way to install the needed J molding at the tops of the newly sided walls without custom bending some coil stock so it slides in under the shingles and come out over the J molding.
I've included a couple of pics to give you a better look at the gables. Perhaps by "no" overhang you're including "minimal" overhang. It looks as though there is about 4-5" and they are lined with what looks like crown molding.
All your window and door trims and sills will need to be built out before wrapping with coil stock so it's not recessed.
Not sure I follow here. I was concerned about the windows looking "sunken" if I installed new siding over the existing. But with a "rip off", I don't see that being a problem. Could you elaborate on what you mean by "built out" and why that would be needed.
The way a window is wrapped is you use a sawsall to make a cut between the brick molding and the sill and cut into the jamb, metal gets bent the shape of the sill and gets notched on the ends so it can slide in under the brick molding and into the slots in the jambs.
Then a piece gets bent in sort of a lazy Z shape to cover up the stops.
Lastly the brick molding gets bent starting on the sides first, then the top.
Gutters need to come down so the fashias can be wrapped.
PS No way would I be using any vinyl covers for any of the trim!
Why is that?
Thank you so much for all of your time.
Mike
