Entry door misaligned and warped

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  #41  
Old 01-04-17, 01:09 PM
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Bit the Bullet and Bought NEW DOOR

Tired of all the issues with this door. So bought new door today. A friend will install Saturday (he has installed metal doors before so knows how to do it). He is picking it up from Home Depot tonight and I will be painting tomorrow and Friday.

Buying new grade 1 deadbolt (Kwikset Smartkey 980) and EZ armor kit to install at same time. The EZ armor comes with 3" long screws.
 

Last edited by femaleDIY; 01-04-17 at 01:33 PM.
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  #42  
Old 01-25-17, 03:17 PM
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New Door needs jamb extenders

My new door was installed by experienced DIY friend but I have to do all finishing/painting, etc. The drywall is proud to new jamb by 3/4" so I need to install jamb extenders to make it flush with drywall to put trim back up. The extenders are needed on both sides of door jamb and at top.

The recommendation I found is to install extenders for 1/4" reveal on jamb and then put trim to edge of extender (assuming 1/4" reveal existed with old door jamb). The extenders are glued with wood glue and nailed into jamb with just a couple of nails.

The door jamb came factory-primed. Will wood glue stick to this primed surface or should I sand off the primer to enhance the bond between jamb and extender?

I will need to cut the extenders for hinges to fit but concerned about the strike plate for latch (not deadbolt). Do I just cut out deep enough into extender so door latch can hit strike plate including the curve on strick plate? Strike plate will be 3/4" deeper into door jamb after extenders are in place.

If the existing trim did not have a 1/4" reveal at jamb, my top trim piece will be 1/2" short to meet the 45 degree mitered corners. I guess that means new trim piece if I can find matching trim. Or opportunity to update trim to something fancier.
 
  #43  
Old 01-25-17, 06:57 PM
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You should have a 1/4" reveal on both the jamb extension AND the casing. You can get extended strike plates. A t-strike might also be an option but they require a different sized mortise. Yes you can glue to the primer. You don't need any notch for the hinges... your 1/4" reveal will miss them.
 
  #44  
Old 01-25-17, 07:14 PM
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Thanks. I knew somebody would have solution for strike plate. Where to I get one?

1\4 reveal for both extender and trim will definitely make top trim piece too short.
 
  #45  
Old 01-25-17, 07:22 PM
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I pick mine up at Johnson hardware. But just google extended strike plate... you will come up with a lot of hits. The 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 should be long enough.

IMO you should get new trim.
 
  #46  
Old 01-26-17, 03:08 AM
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I have to do all finishing/painting,
The door should have painting instructions included so be sure to read them. You'll need to wipe the door down with mineral spirits or wash the door with soap and rinse. They generally come with a light coating of oil for extra rust protection during shipping ..... and the paint won't adhere to that oil.
 
  #47  
Old 01-27-17, 03:21 AM
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Concerned that 1/4" reveal for both jamb extender and trim will be problem with baseboard moulding. The extra 1/2" width would require trimming back for fit. Don't think I want to get into that. Would it really be bad to only reveal at extender and then put trim to edge of extender with no reveal? I have read several people recommending AGAINST double reveal with jamb extenders.

What is the best way to get consistent 1/4" reveal when installing jamb extenders/door trim?
 
  #48  
Old 01-27-17, 03:57 AM
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Having a reveal makes it easier to caulk the gap and IMO looks better, it doesn't need to be a 1/4" a 1/8" [or a little less] is fine.
 
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