Basement door frame to concrete repair

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Old 10-12-16, 09:42 AM
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Basement door frame to concrete repair

This was previously a Bilco door type entry to the basement. Years ago, Bilco doors were removed when a sun room was added. With that the doorway to the basement was framed to accommodate a very nice and heavy, solid wood door that I removed and refinished. The door frame was framed out with 2 x 8's attached to the concrete/cinder block walls. Over many years, there had been drainage issues where water seeped through the concrete and penetrated the lower parts of the door frame, to the point of termite damage. I've had a contractor over to give me an estimate on re-framing the doorway to replace the same door. He seemed reluctant to give me an estimate but knowing I have "some" skills, told me to just cut the damaged parts off and "fit in" new 2 x 8's but DO NOT use pressure treated wood. I cut the damaged areas off as he suggested but have doubts about how to go about finishing as he stated to. Would his suggestion be supportive enough for a heavy door? Should there be a barrier film between wood and concrete? There is still a potential for moisture seeping, drainage was addressed but on very heavy rains there is still some seepage in one corner, (Last Photo)Attachment 71828Attachment 71829Attachment 71830Attachment 71831
 
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Old 10-12-16, 09:50 AM
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What is the size of your concrete rough opening?
 
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Old 10-12-16, 09:57 AM
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Without the 2 x 8 frame: approx 39 1/2" w x 74 1/2" h.
 
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Old 10-12-16, 10:36 AM
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I think I would remove all the wood from the cement, not just half of it and also remove the top jamb. Then line the sides of the opening with some 3/4 treated plywood, glued and screwed to the concrete.

Then make your own custom sized prehung door... get yourself a 36" door slab (a flush solid core door would be best), and some jamb material, assemble a jamb that is as tall as possible, consider keeping your hinges centered on the jamb by cutting some length off both the top an bottom of the hinge side jamb, then assemble the jamb. Then cut the top and bottom your door to fit your jamb and hang it on your jamb. Buying a jamb kit saves you from having to do half of the mortising. You will still need to mortise the door for hinges so they will line up with the jamb. Or if you don't mind doing all the mortising, just buy some poplar 1x8 to use as jambs and some door stop and diy.

Then install that prehung door into the opening with shims and screws. You will likely want to install a long tapcon screw in each hinge to hit the concrete... and possibly countersink a few others into the opposite jamb as needed.

You could buy a prehung 36" door as well, but most will be hollow, which means cutting a plug for each end you cut off.... and if the door is prebored for a knob, you won't want to just cut 5" off the bottom, it will make the knob 5" too low. Could be done, but it might be more work... plus disassembling a prehung jamb sometimes destroys it.
 
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Old 10-12-16, 11:08 AM
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Had the feeling starting from scratch would be the better solution. That's a bit beyond my skill level tho and I was hoping to reuse the solid wood door I spent a week refinishing to a beautiful dark walnut. Couldn't afford to purchase that quality, if it even exist anymore.

What would be a reason not to use the treated wood as he warned against? Would you recommend a foam barrier, like what's used between foundation and sill plate, be placed between the plywood and concrete?
 
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Old 10-12-16, 01:57 PM
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Only thing I can think of is that he is thinking that all the fasteners you put into treated wood need to be ACQ compatable, such as ceramic coated or hot dipped galvanized. Don't know what size your door is but if you are intent on using it I would still suggest you make a jamb for it that is 3/4" or 1" thick... and use shims to space that jamb away from the concrete. It will help you square / plumb the door jamb up within the opening.

Otherwise if you think tgats too much work / beyond your skill level, forget what i suggested just patch it up as best as you can and hang the door. A cedar 2x8 would be OK to use to patch in. If you are worried about moisture put a scrap of tar paper behind it. I just don't think that's going to look very good, but I don't know how good it needs to look either.
 
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