Solid front door slightly warped and allowing cold air
#1
11-28-16, 09:58 PM
Solid front door slightly warped and allowing cold air
Folks:
My front door is of Alder. I pulled it down and refinished the outside this past summer. I noticed it is slightly warped. It takes a sun beating in the summer, so I'm sure that hasn't helped.
Today was a cold one and I've noticed the upper left side is the slightly warped (inward) side and is letting in the cold from the corner to about 6 inches down. Is there anything I can do to get it to move left (at least the top) about 1/4th of an inch? I clearly don't know much about hinge adjustments--nor if that is something that can be done with such a heavy door. However, I've completely repainted most of my basement and removed and sprayed many doors. So I'm handy enough to remove and adjust--if needed. I just don't know the right way to do it with a front door like this.
Photos show the right gap on the right upper side--so it could move left, if that would help. Photos also show the wide gap on the left.
Thx.
TKH
Full door
Gap side (left)
Non-gap and tight side (right)
My front door is of Alder. I pulled it down and refinished the outside this past summer. I noticed it is slightly warped. It takes a sun beating in the summer, so I'm sure that hasn't helped.
Today was a cold one and I've noticed the upper left side is the slightly warped (inward) side and is letting in the cold from the corner to about 6 inches down. Is there anything I can do to get it to move left (at least the top) about 1/4th of an inch? I clearly don't know much about hinge adjustments--nor if that is something that can be done with such a heavy door. However, I've completely repainted most of my basement and removed and sprayed many doors. So I'm handy enough to remove and adjust--if needed. I just don't know the right way to do it with a front door like this.
Photos show the right gap on the right upper side--so it could move left, if that would help. Photos also show the wide gap on the left.
Thx.
TKH
Full door
Gap side (left)
Non-gap and tight side (right)
#2
11-29-16, 03:01 AM
Group Moderator
If you are saying the top protrudes into the room, the simplest thing to do is to move your strike plate so that the entire door latches tighter. The weatherstripping can usually absorb some of that. Look at the door from the OUTSIDE. Is it contacting the weatherstrip evenly? Generally there will be a little air leakage where the vertical weatherstrip meets the horizontal weatherstrip. A foam door corner wedge gasket at each corner, tucked behind the weatherstrip, can help with that.
If you just want to move the door left, a shim behind the top hinge would do that. I sometimes use pennies and glue them onto the jamb side mortise behind the hinge, they won't crush. But I highly doubt you need to move the door left. Unless the door is protruding into the room and you can see from the outside that is is missing the weatherstrip, i doubt that is why you are feeling air there.
If you just want to move the door left, a shim behind the top hinge would do that. I sometimes use pennies and glue them onto the jamb side mortise behind the hinge, they won't crush. But I highly doubt you need to move the door left. Unless the door is protruding into the room and you can see from the outside that is is missing the weatherstrip, i doubt that is why you are feeling air there.
#3
11-29-16, 03:05 AM
Is the door warped or just not sitting in the frame correctly? Generally with a warped door it's best to either add weatherstripping or replace the door ..... and that is a nice looking door. You might be able to shim or reposition the hinges to get a better fit. When you removed the door did you just knock out the hinge pins or remove the hinges?
#4
11-29-16, 05:10 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Use a straight edge on door to make sure weather door is warped or not in frame right. Trying to fix wrong problem can lead into more work than necessary.
