Velux motor controlled window

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Old 04-16-17, 03:13 AM
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Velux motor controlled window

Hi I need advice. I have a motor operated velux window and exterior blind which will not work. I can open the window manually. The window stopped first and then after some months the blind . Have following info:
Window no. GGL 304 3076 - Window size 78cm x 98cm - FB 05 AE 05 S

Window was installed by previous owner around, I guess 2003/2004 . Velux's golden no. plate indicates roof Windows delivered from 01 April 1991 to 01 April 2001 .

Motor no WMG 500 01 - ?E09B 24V (can't read the ?)

Velux WLI 130 Wall switch

Velux WLC 100 control unit . I've guessed that this is the unit from motor and wall switch types . I can't find it . Previous owner converted loft into mezzanine . Walls boarded and plastered .I assume the unit must be somewhere behind the plaster board.

Contacted Velux France and told window too old to pair as spare parts are not available . True in France but they are available in the UK, Germany and the USA. Managed to get a Velux guy to come and look; said, after v quick look, too old and motor not working. Not obvious how he tested the motor . Only interested in installing a new window at a cost of thousands of euros.

NO REMOTE CONTROL . Window and blind operated from wall switch . At the moment the lights/indicaters do not light up when pressed + no click sound . Assume either no power to wall switch or wall switch broken. I've opened it, connections look good and no obvious damage .

From reading online posts and I guess that the most likely cause is the control unit. Seems unlikely that the motor, control unit and wall switch are all broken. However, before I start removing plaster boards I'd like to check that 1) The wall switch is OK , 2) There's not a break in the circuit, 3) The motor is OK.

1) Don't know how to test the wall switch, wonder if I'm more likely to fry a transistor . Thinking of disconecting it and testing the voltage drop, Volts ?, across connections to (I assume) the controller) ? ie, see if there is any power to the switch .
3) Test Motor; Again not sure how to do this . Read something about a test button ? Test voltage from controller ?
2) Can I test the circuit before I start digging for the controller ? Don't have a plan of total circuit: power/controller/motor/blind & window ?

Sorry about the long post. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 04-16-17, 12:08 PM
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Welcome to the forums from France.

I severely doubt the switch is bad. The control unit or more specifically the power supply has failed.

They are usually put in an out-of-the- way location. I find it hard to believe that someone would be so foolish as to bury it in the wall.


If I was called to look at that problem.... I'd take the wires off the switch and connect a tone generator to them and track their location thru the wall. . After you connect the tone generator you move the wand over the wall to find the wiring. The tone should be loud just away from the switch. It should also be loud near the motors.

The unit is called a fox and hound. It is a clip on tone generator and a handheld wand receiver. Not sure what you have available to you. Most electricians have them.

This is just one model. There are others.
amazon/Triplett-3399-Generator-Adjustable-Sensitivity
 
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Old 04-17-17, 01:58 AM
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Hi, Thanks for advice. I'll get a 'tester' of the type you suggest . Local DIY is quite good and will know of this type but maybe a different make. My gut feeling was lack of power and as you say controller or power supply.

I'm almost certain that he buried the control in the wall or ceiling . Over the years his plumbing, electrical and roof DIY work have caused me many headaches : almost every joint leaked, roof beams to small and to few to support roof, fire burnt out main power supply. And plugging in kettle (boils water) for first cup of tea in house got sizeable electrical shock .

Over the years I've got to know his mindset : he'd have installed the window before boarding not giving a thought that it might be necessary to gain access at a later date . + 'Hiding the misery' is a French art .

Again thanks.
 
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Old 05-08-17, 04:50 AM
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Still looking for control box

Hi , Got tone generator device . Not as easily available in France as I thought . While I was waiting for it to arrive opened a bit of plaster in the window well to see where wires from motor went + thought that I might be able to see the control box. No such luck but it gave a good guess as to route of wires : Behind ceiling plaster board , over the beams and down wall behind plaster board to switch . With tone device confirmed this , but hasn't helped find the control box. I'd sort of assumed that the tone signal would terminate at the control box, but with the exception of 2 points alone plaster boarded wall, can trace the tone all the way to motor. Signal very weak through plaster board, much stronger when cables immerge to the motor. Again I'm assuming :

Something blocking signal at the 2 points ?
Signal passes through control box hence control part working, at least in part, but as there is no power voltage adapter side not working ?

I'm hesitating now as I will still have to dig behind the plaster board to find control box . Distance is about 2.5m . Assuming that the control box is the problem ; Ok, it does seem the most likely , but before I start digging are there any checks I can do to confirm that the motor and switch are OK?

+ I've just realised that the don't know how big the control box is ? I'm guessing at 150/200mm by about the same .
 
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Old 05-08-17, 01:02 PM
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Depending on the thickness (distance between the wiring and the wand) the volume will change. Closer = louder.

The control box needs power so there is a power supply involved which means mains wiring too.
Possibly a buried receptacle.

Some info on the control box.
This is the UK version which should be similar to yours
WLC-100_data.pdf
 
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Old 05-10-17, 03:20 AM
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A Short Tempered Thank You

Hi Thanks for the reply and the download . I'd already got the installation guide in French and English but the download gave a bit more info. I can't honestly say that I appreciated the other info : Closer/Stronger : Really ! I'd never have worked that one out on my own . Power supply to the control box : I see , it isn't stepping down 240V of air to 24V of air. Sorry about that, but after a hard day and returning home to keep digging for the control box has got to me. + The nitwit who did the installation wasn't any better at doing insulation/boarding/plastering. Even with knowing the cable route getting behind plaster board and insulation is proving to be more trouble than it's worth . Plan B : I'm going to bypass the 'hidden' box and install a new control box.
 
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Old 05-10-17, 11:02 AM
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The original control box has a power supply in it. It needs mains power.
You can add a 24v power supply to the control box to replace the on board supply... if you were to find the box.
 
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