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Unusual strike plate size in existing interior condition

Unusual strike plate size in existing interior condition


Old 05-08-17, 11:41 AM
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Unusual strike plate size in existing interior condition

Our house is late 1940s vintage. The previous home owner replaced several of the flush interior doors with painted hardwood 6 panel doors with new hardware, but left the original frames and hinges in tact. This included changing out the original strike plates. The original were apparently T-strikes at 2 1/2" tall and 1" wide with holes spaced 1 7/8" apart. They replaced them with standard strike plates at 2 1/4" tall with holes spaced 1 5/8" apart. To make it work, they only installed one of two screws. Of course this leaves part of the chiselled out shape from the previous plate exposed above and below visible, the cutout for the latch doesn't quite line up with the hole in the frame, and we have found that using only one screw leaves the bottom half loose and liable to be caught and bent.

We would like to go back to the original T-Strike, but T-strikes manufactured today are 2 3/4" tall and 1 1/8" wide with screw holes spaced 2 1/8" apart. We could chisel the recess larger to accommodate, but that wouldn't solve screw holes that are off by 1/8" in each direction. Any thoughts on making this work would be greatly appreciated.

Also, one of the newer doors is undersized by about 1/2" so that a fully recessed strike plate doesn't fully engage the latch to keep the door closed. Any thoughts on attractively padding the hinges or the stike plate or the jamb to bridge this gap?

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Old 05-08-17, 11:49 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

Regarding the strike plate, I suggest using the larger T strike. Drill out the existing holes to 1/4 or 3/8, then glue in a piece of dowel rod to fill the hole. Once it's dry, you can drill new holes for the screws at wider spacing.

For the undersize door, best bet would probably be to remove the door, and add a full size filler to the hinge side jamb. You will have to remove the stop, fill in the old hinge mortises and then attach the full size filler. Then reattach the stop. A local lumber yard can machine a filler piece of the correct size and thickness out of appropriate wood if you don't have the necessary means to DIY. Of course, you will have to machine new mortises in the filler for the hinges.

The other option would be to replace the door with one of proper size.

You could also put the filler on the latch side....I guess that would solve the strike problem at the same time.
Old 05-08-17, 12:39 PM
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CarbideTipped has good ideas but I stuff wooden matches in holes with wood glue. I hammer in the last one so it is very tight. The matches are of a soft wood and new screws go in them well.
Old 05-08-17, 01:47 PM
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If it's mortised out for the larger t plates, that is what should have been used. They are available, but someone that didnt know any better probably just used the ones that come standard with new knobs.
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