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Need to fill gap between slab wall & garage door jamb

Need to fill gap between slab wall & garage door jamb


Old 05-17-17, 05:56 PM
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Need to fill gap between slab wall & garage door jamb

In the pictures below, you'll see how my less-than contractor set the door entering my attached garage during construction.

The home is built on a monolithic slab. The slab opening wasn't quite wide enough for the door originally ordered, so a smaller door was installed. This left about a 1-1.25" gap on each side of the door frame. The contractor set the door without any sealant at the threshold and left the gaps. The gaps were hidden by molding (the cheap particle type).

When it rains, water obviously comes in underneath & at the gaps. The trim sopped up the water, expanded, and started to rot in short order. I cut the trim off low to expose the area.

I'd like to fill the gaps with some sort of flow-able mortar that will prevent water from entering. Then, I'll seal the threshold front & back the best I can.

What material would be best used to fill these gaps??

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Old 05-18-17, 01:40 AM
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my less-than contractor
Would that be less than brilliant, or maybe less than clueless? I know a few also!

You could use hydraulic cement, it sets up fast so be mindful. Could also consider a piece of foam glued in the gap, maybe even the correct expanding foam.

You could use a composite molding to replace the rotted wood.
Old 05-18-17, 02:35 AM
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I believe hydraulic cement may expand too much and cause door problems, and spray foam won't stop water infiltration. One suggestion, with the exterior trim still in place, inject concrete repair in a tube in the area and allow it to fill completely (may take a tube per side), then quickly temporarily nail up the inside piece of molding to hold it until it sets up.

Once it has set up, remove the outer molding and waterproof the joint between the old and new and caulk it, replacing the trim.

Marq1 was correct in his assessment of your "contractor".
Old 05-18-17, 04:01 AM
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I would open the door, gently pry up on the sill and threshold and see if the door sill is even caulked down to the cement. The light at the bottom of the door is not good... but you ALSO have light at the top of the foundation, so water could also be coming in from higher up. The siding should be overlapping the foundation there and it should be caulked to the brickmould. No reason you should see light up there.

The cement outside the door should also be 1" or more lower than the cement that the door sits on. When it's even water can run back or blow back under the door.

That gap is really of no concern and could be filled with foam, but foam is not the solution to the leak. If the door was not set on a bed of sealant, the door should come out. Another solution is to take the door out, install a pan flashing in the rough opening, then install the door on top of the pan flashing. The pan flashing prevents water from leaking into the room from the sides of the rough opening. The door should still be set in sealant.

If the garage will be heated, that door should have been insulated in the first place.
Old 05-18-17, 07:07 PM
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There's nothing under there ... they set the door dry. As well, the garage floor is level with the exterior drive ... so, water comes in freely with a good rain.

To add insult to injury, I called the contractor back out during my 1-year construction warranty. Of course, they just sent the sub out. When they came to repair, I caught them with a tube of clear silicone "shower sealant" gobbing it all under the threshold from the outside. I said "so you think that's gonna work , eh" .... he replied "oh sure buddy, its shower silicone .. its meant for water". ~sigh

The right thing to do is re-set the door proper; but, at this point, I'm just trying to stop/slow the incoming water.

Thanks for the responses thus far.
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