Siding Gap after Moving Window
#1
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Location: MD
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Siding Gap after Moving Window
1st Question: I am re-framing and replacing a 36" wide kitchen window, and the new window will shift 2" right creating a gap in the vinyl siding. I am wondering it it might be easier and look okay to just add exterior molding around this one window to fill the gap, or if I should stagger in additional siding.
I will have extra original siding available in 4' lengths from adding a new window to a blank wall in another room. My siding is almond, and windows are white. None of the other windows have any extra exterior trim, but because the window is in the middle of the exterior wall, I thought it might be okay to just add trim to this one window. The back side of this house includes a sliding door in the first room, this window in the middle room, and 1 window on the end room.
I plan to replace with an Andersen 200 window. The smallest Andersen trim is 3.5" flat trim. I was hoping for something smaller.
2nd Question: I will also add a new window to a blank wall in the other room. I know that this wall is definitely parallel with the ceiling joists, and that those joists definitely rest on the other 2 adjacent walls. I think that means that when I rough frame the window my header could just be a 2 x 4, which would minimize drywall repair be limiting the drywall damage to areas that will be covered by the interior trim. Correct?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Dave
I will have extra original siding available in 4' lengths from adding a new window to a blank wall in another room. My siding is almond, and windows are white. None of the other windows have any extra exterior trim, but because the window is in the middle of the exterior wall, I thought it might be okay to just add trim to this one window. The back side of this house includes a sliding door in the first room, this window in the middle room, and 1 window on the end room.
I plan to replace with an Andersen 200 window. The smallest Andersen trim is 3.5" flat trim. I was hoping for something smaller.
2nd Question: I will also add a new window to a blank wall in the other room. I know that this wall is definitely parallel with the ceiling joists, and that those joists definitely rest on the other 2 adjacent walls. I think that means that when I rough frame the window my header could just be a 2 x 4, which would minimize drywall repair be limiting the drywall damage to areas that will be covered by the interior trim. Correct?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Dave
#2
1. I would reside the area. If no other windows have trim, it would make that one window stand out as unique. But it's your house... if you don't mind it, that's all that matters.
2. Not necessarily. What style of roof is above this area. If rafters sit on the wall, it is load bearing. Plus, you still have to follow a size table for headers in non load bearing walls... depending on the span of the opening.
2. Not necessarily. What style of roof is above this area. If rafters sit on the wall, it is load bearing. Plus, you still have to follow a size table for headers in non load bearing walls... depending on the span of the opening.
#4
They make a wider J channel that may help you hide your offset issue with the window in your first question. The window will still stand out, but may be able to blend it better. Not sure if you can hide 2" though.
#5
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Why was a window the right size not ordered?
No way would I be trying to patch in short pieces of siding!!
No way would I be trying to patch in short pieces of siding!!