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Trimming exterior door.


Justin Furnas's Avatar
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07-04-17, 06:37 PM   #1  
Trimming exterior door.

So I had to replace my exterior door, and in doing so had to do some modification. This is what I ended up with:

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In order to build out the door to meet the outside flush, I had to use 2x4s. The jamb was much thinner then the opening, because the original ow we never removed the original wood siding and applied the new siding over it.

The door that was there I've never seen before. It was a steel door, but the jamb was really wide and it had a metal skin around the frame which made it thicker.

What would you recommend the best way to fill in that narrow section between the jamb and the 2x4?

I'm considering ripping down some wood to about 1x1, then applying some of that aluminum straight flashing over the inside face of the jamb all the way around to hide any seams.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 
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ShortyLong's Avatar
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07-04-17, 06:44 PM   #2  
Suppose you replace the 2x4 with a 2x6?

 
Justin Furnas's Avatar
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07-04-17, 06:52 PM   #3  
The 2x4 is sitting width wise. In the image, the 2" part is facing to the right, door frame to the left.
. If I use a 2x6 it won't be flush with the frame anymore.

 
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07-05-17, 02:36 AM   #4  
Why not use a 2x6 and rip it down to the correct width?


retired painter/contractor avid DIYer

 
Justin Furnas's Avatar
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07-05-17, 04:28 AM   #5  
I'm not sure you guys are really understanding what the problem is. A 2x6 wouldn't solve it. There is about a 3/4" gap between the 2x4 at the front of the house and the door frame. I am trying to fill it in so it's flush or at least not gapped. I attempted to rip down a 1x2 but the gap isn't quite consistent all the way through because of the unlevel of the house so it still had gaps in it.

 
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07-05-17, 04:51 AM   #6  
Gap

The outside 2x4 needs to be removed and replaced with a ripped 2x6 of the correct width to fill the gap.

If the gap is mot the same from top to bottom, scribe and rip with a circular saw.

 
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07-05-17, 05:31 AM   #7  
Sounds like it would have worked out better if you had padded out the sheathing with 1/2" plywood up to the edge of the rough opening. Then cut a jamb extension that is maybe 1 1/2" x 1"... until its flush with the face of the plywood. Then apply face trim that is 1" thick (not 1 1/2", as storm doors are made to go on 1" thick trim and butt up against the jamb.)

Cover with aluminum that you have bent on a brake (if desired), but its normal to see the joint where the jamb extension meets the jamb. Just caulk and paint.

 
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07-05-17, 06:36 AM   #8  
About 5 of us, me being the first, suggested a 2x6. It was also suggested that the 2x6 be scribed & cut on an angle, if the space is uneven. I've done it on a number of occasions since door manufacturers got cheap & made the frame an inch smaller. I still don't understand why it won't work. Maybe you can post a wide angled pic from the outside.

 
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07-05-17, 10:15 AM   #9  
Apparently no one understands that this guy has a 4 9/16" prehung jamb that he is putting into a 5 9/16" wall. (Really should have ordered the right door for the wall... threshold doesnt cover the bottom well either.) He just needs a 1" extension on the outside of his door jamb. Make it exactly 1" and if it sticks out in places, place shims behind the face trim as needed. It will look straight that way.

Everyone suggesting a 2x6 is missing it completely.

My point was that if he ever intends to put a storm door on, it should be a 1 1/2" jamb extension with 1" thick face trim (instead of a 1" jamb with 1 1/2" thick trim). It's also standard for the trim to be set back 1/2" from the inside perimeter of the jamb so that the width between the trim is a standard measurement... either 32 or 36"... and 1/2" offset on top so the height is around 80 1/2" or more.

 
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07-05-17, 10:42 AM   #10  
Maybe you can post a wide angled pic from the outside.
And maybe someone can turn the pics correctly so a better visual can be had. I see the issue but others are missing it.

 
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07-05-17, 11:20 AM   #11  
This right here is the problem. The door jamb isn't wide enough. (It's an 1" narrower than the old one, and even the old one was too narrow, but at least it wasn't as much). As far as ordering the right size door, I looked into it. It was 900 for a prehung custom door, because I need one that was 76", as that's as tall as my opening, and I can't make it taller. The original door was a security concern, and had to be replaced right away, and money was extremely tight.

As far as putting a storm door on it, I have not been able to find one that will fit. The frame for the door now is only 77" tall, and I have not seen storm doors that are that size without custom sizing (again, extremely expensive).

As far as the threshold, the picture is deceiving. The threshold actually extends out past the front edge of the house. I even put some angle flashing underneath it to prevent water from settling. Some of the stuff you are seeing in the picture is the old siding and some half-attempted patching of wood that was underneath the door that was removed when the new one was installed.

It sounds like the general principal is just to rip & scribe a small piece of wood to fit into the gap on both sides. I have no problem doing that, and the not having a seam part is really just me being ocd-ish with appearances.

I am sorry the pictures uploaded sideways. It was taken with my phone, and they are oriented correctly on my pc and the phone, so I have no idea why the forums flipped them.

 
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07-05-17, 11:56 AM   #12  
A Moderator can reorient the pics.

 
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