DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Interior Improvement Center > Doors, Skylights and Windows

Removing Interior door and widening. advice needed.

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

07-05-17, 12:29 PM

Spunky424

Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Nov 2014

Location: USA

Posts: 91

Upvotes: 0

Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts

Removing Interior door and widening. advice needed.

so i'm planning to remove a 30" wide closet door along with the framing as well. i want to also remove the existing studs on the right side of the door so that the opening will be wider. the next stud is roughly 12" away. i know for sure this is a load bearing wall as i can see the existing studs to the left and right of the door are supporting the main joist in the ceiling. will i be okay removing the studs to the right and have an opening of approximately 42" wide without needing to reinforce it? any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

Upvote

07-05-17, 12:52 PM

marksr

Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Mar 2005

Location: USA - N.E.Tn

Posts: 45,416

Upvotes: 595

Received 786 Upvotes on 689 Posts

Any time you take out a portion of a load bearing wall you need to install a properly sized header [supported on each end] to pick up the load.

Upvote

07-05-17, 01:02 PM

Spunky424

Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Nov 2014

Location: USA

Posts: 91

Upvotes: 0

Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts

i'll post up some pictures to show what i'm talking about. The wall is supported by the next stud 12" away to the right if i were to remove the doorway stud that framed out the existing door. the header being supported by all the existing studs.i would just be removing one of the studs that was used to frame out the door, but also at the same time was supporting the existing header.

Upvote

07-05-17, 02:56 PM

joecaption

Member

Join Date: Jan 2011

Location: USA

Posts: 4,461

Upvotes: 245

Received 126 Upvotes on 111 Posts

Just because the next stud is 12" away does not mean the wall is a supporting wall.
Need to be looking above and below the wall to see if it's a supporting wall.
Why 42" a wide opening, not planning on installing a door?
Is the wall at right angles to or parallel with the rafters?

Upvote

07-06-17, 11:36 AM

Spunky424

Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: Nov 2014

Location: USA

Posts: 91

Upvotes: 0

Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts

there will be no longer a door installed, i will be making a custom mudroom type bench, so widening the opening would allow for this to work and my kids to sit on the bench to put on their shoes.

Upvote

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Show Printable Version

Email this Page

Doors, Skylights and Windows
Trimming exterior door.

J

Justin Furnas on Jul 04, 2017

So I had to replace my exterior door, and in doing so had to do some modification. This is what I ended up with: [ATTACH]82732[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]82733[/ATTACH] In order to build out the door to meet the outside flush, I had to use 2x4s. The jamb was much thinner then the opening, because the original ow we never removed the original wood siding and applied the new siding over it. The door that was there I've never seen before. It was a steel door, but the jamb was really wide and it had a metal skin around the frame which made it thicker. What would you recommend the best way to fill in that narrow section between the jamb and the 2x4? I'm considering ripping down some wood to about 1x1, then applying some of that aluminum straight flashing over the inside face of the jamb all the way around to hide any seams. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Read More
Doors, Skylights and Windows
Can't remove sliding glass door fixed panel

F

fcleme on Jul 07, 2017

I need to remove the sliding glass door panels in our duplex in order to move an oversized couch to the living room. I've read other posts and watched YouTube videos but haven't found a similar sliding glass door. I'm hoping that one of the people on this forum can help. The couch is in the backyard beside the sliding glass door. Even though it is summer I live in the Seattle area so no telling when it is going to start raining again. In order to clarify the situation I posted some pictures on Flickr. The address is listed below. [url]https://www.flickr.com/photos/152432387@N03/shares/sJ9j9n[/url] So far I've done the following: 1) Removed the sliding panel 2) Removed the plastic piece in the bottom channel (it blocked the fixed panel from sliding open). 3) Removed the plastic piece attached to the vertical edge of the fixed panel (not sure of it's purpose). 4) Removed about 5 or 6 screws that held the felt piece, that wipes against the sliding panel, flat against the vertical edge of the fixed panel. 5) Slid the plastic pieces above and below the fixed panel to the sliding panel opening. This left an opening above and below fixed panel. After doing the above was expecting to be able to slide the fixed panel open slightly and then lift it out of the channel. Unfortunately it won't budge. Tried to pry it open but wouldn't move. Not sure where to pry because there is a small plastic piece between the fixed panel and the sill (does it stay attached to the fixed panel or the sill?) Haven't pulled aggressively on the fixed panel yet. If the people who read this forum can't identify any other screws or fasteners that are keeping the fixed panel from moving then for the next step will pull much harder on the fixed panel to try and get it to slide open. Might have to use a come-along to get enough mechanical advantage to overcome whatever is holding the fixed panel closed. Tank you for any help you can provide. FrankRead More

Ask a Question