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Removing exterior door and replacing with wall on wood sided house

Removing exterior door and replacing with wall on wood sided house

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  #1  
Old 10-14-17, 10:16 PM
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Removing exterior door and replacing with wall on wood sided house

I have a laundry room I am coverting to a laundry room/powder room and need the entire back wall for relocating the washer/dryer and storage cabinets. Currently, there is a standard sized door that has never been used to the back deck. I would like know how to remove it and replace it with wall on the inside and siding on the out. I would like to leave the inside sheetrock till last so that any plumbing and wiring can be relocated there first. I have very little expertise in this specifi home improvement area, but we have tools and have done other rough and finish carpentry around the house.

Please help! We have to do this ourselves.

Also, I am assuming there are no codes that require egress to the outside. I am hoping we do not need a window to the outside.

Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 10-15-17, 03:25 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

It's not a great idea to locate plumbing in an exterior wall although some climates are worse than others. What type of siding do you have?
pics could be helpful - https://www.doityourself.com/forum/e...-pictures.html

For the most part removing the door is pretty straightforward; just remove the door, jamb and threshold then add studs and plywood [exterior] as needed.
 
  #3  
Old 10-15-17, 06:42 AM
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To do this right and not have it look like there used to be a door there, some of the siding will need to be remove to "weave" it in .
I cut the paint lines then tap in a flat bar at the bottom so I can slide in a 12" sawsall blade to cut off the hidden nails to slide the siding out.
Remove the door trim on the inside and outside, remove the door by knocking out the hinge pins to make it easier to handle, use a saw all with a long bi metal fine tooth blade to cut out the nails or screws holding in the jambs.
Add 2 X 4's at the top, bottom and then the sides in that order to the rough framing to act as nailers for the new sheathing.
I install the needed center 2 X 4 at 16" O/C so a full width piece of insulation can be used and only have to rip one piece.
Lay the insulation paper side up on top of the new sheathing laying on the ground to cut it.
Install the sheathing with 8D ring shanked nails.
Hopefully there's a vapor barrier under the siding, if so I'd use 15 LB. felt to cover the new sheathing making sure it gets tucked in under the sides and at the top.
 
  #4  
Old 10-15-17, 10:52 PM
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I have horizontal cedar cedar siding. Will try to take a picture tomorrow (dark out now). I live in Wisconsin near the Milwaukee area. I never thought about plumbing not being able to be put on an exterior wall. That being said, my kitchen sink is against the back wall, and I have not had any problems with it.

However, I did have a pipe burst last winter in the basement against the exterior wall. That was on us, because we didn't drain the pipe properly to winterize the exterior faucet.

Thanks for your help, and I'll try to get back to you with the pictures tomorrow. I might be biting off more than I can chew!
 
  #5  
Old 10-16-17, 03:02 AM
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The plumbing for my kitchen sink is exposed [inside the cabinet] which allows the house heat to surround it. Whenever you must put plumbing in an exterior wall it's important to have good insulation but not have much insulation between the pipe and the interior wall. You might be able to run plumbing on the interior side of the drywall and have it hid by the washer/dryer.
 
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