Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Interior Improvement Center > Doors, Skylights and Windows
Reload this Page >

Can I install a storm door for my exterior door?

Can I install a storm door for my exterior door?

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-27-17, 12:05 PM
Q
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 254
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Can I install a storm door for my exterior door?

Hello all,

I want to install a storm door to my house. After doing some research and watching online video, it seems to me that I don't have enough space on my current door frame to accept a storm door.

Can someone take a look?

Thank you
 
Attached Images      
  #2  
Old 10-27-17, 12:19 PM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 24,701
Received 784 Votes on 721 Posts
I have installed them on doors like yours. Sometimes I have to make filler strips to attach to the door frame to accommodate the screen door's frame. So, yes it can be done but it probably won't be a 15 minute, simply screw it in place type job.
 
  #3  
Old 10-27-17, 01:25 PM
Q
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 254
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hello Pilot,

Do I install the hinge between A and B?

Based on my understanding, it will be impossible to install rain cap on top of the storm door because I have no enough space to mount the cap. Is that correct?

Thank you
 
  #4  
Old 10-27-17, 05:17 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 15 Votes on 13 Posts
Storm doors are usually mounted to the brick molding surrounding the door. From the pictures you attached, I see no initial issues with installing a storm door. The frame of the storm door is deeper on the inside part of the molding and shorter on the outer most portion of the molding. I think that you will have little issues installing a standard storm door. Having a piece of the storm door framing in hand would help you to secure it in your mind.
 
  #5  
Old 10-28-17, 09:02 AM
J
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4,862
Received 85 Votes on 80 Posts
Look right on the outside of the box the door comes in, most have the min. / max size of the opening it will fit.
The install directions can also be found right on line under the Manf. website.
 
  #6  
Old 10-28-17, 05:26 PM
Q
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 254
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hello all,

I measured the door and bought Andersen 3000.

However, I have a big problem because whoever build the house didn't lay the brick correctly. Some of the bricks protrude into the center and I am not able to ever insert the dorm door. As shown in the picture, I am working to grind off the extra brick and hopefully it will work.

However the process is extremely slow. I just bought https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-i...-pc-61203.html from HF and will try again tomorrow.

Thank you
 
Attached Images  
  #7  
Old 10-29-17, 06:04 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 24,701
Received 784 Votes on 721 Posts
I leave the bricks intact since cutting or grinding them down will be a visible blemish is someone in the future removes the door. I use a file or tin snips to trim the mounting flange as needed to fit around the protrusions.

Also look at your storm and it's hydraulic door closers. Sometimes there is not enough space between the house's door and the storm for the door closers when you just mount to the brick mold. In that case you need to install a spacer strip on the brick mold to move the storm out to create enough space between the doors for the closers.
 
  #8  
Old 10-29-17, 09:30 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 15 Votes on 13 Posts
If brick clearance is needed in a couple of places, I would be more inclined to chip a little mortar or a small piece of brick to make the metal clear than to actively deface the brick for the storm. The door will clear the brick, it is the metal frame that needs to have things eased a little.
 
  #9  
Old 10-29-17, 04:15 PM
Q
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 254
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hello all,

Thank you so much for your great helps.

I got it done within 2 days instead of 45 minutes.

Here is the final result:
 
Attached Images    
  #10  
Old 10-29-17, 06:12 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 15 Votes on 13 Posts
Well, don't know why you ground down the brick when all you needed clearance for was the track for the storm door. That would have been an eased edge into the brick to make it work. Now you have a defaced brick that can't be corrected.

As long as you are happy, I guess it is OK. If I did this as a contractor, I would be facing issues from the homeowner.
 
  #11  
Old 10-29-17, 09:32 PM
Q
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 254
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The track was attached to the door originally. This is Andersen 45 minutes installation door.
https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pd...ffd72547a3.pdf

The whole door with all tracks is supposed to put into the frame to start the installation.

Thank you
 
  #12  
Old 10-30-17, 06:39 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 15 Votes on 13 Posts
The storm door sits on the brick molding with maybe a 1/2 inch or a bit more on the brick molding. Longer section of the frame is inset on the molding. You had more than enough clearance to install the frame for your storm door. I've put enough in to know that you did not have to grind down brick to make it work. But again, if you are happy with your install, that is all that matters.
 
  #13  
Old 11-01-17, 07:06 AM
Q
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 254
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I should have known the frame can be removed. Now it is too late to make any changes.

Thank you
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: