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Need tips for adjusting new entry door with sidelights

Need tips for adjusting new entry door with sidelights

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  #1  
Old 11-03-17, 05:49 AM
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Need tips for adjusting new entry door with sidelights

Hello,

I just installed a new entry door. It is tight. No side is sagging. Just tight top to bottom along the latch edge when closing. I am aware of the long screw trick many use, but this has sidelights so the screw would not reach the framing.

I need to know some other tricks to eliminate the sticking as it closes and opens. I need to open the gap a bit.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-03-17, 05:57 AM
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Is it plumb & level? That's most important.
 
  #3  
Old 11-03-17, 06:55 AM
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Yes. The door is plumb and level. It appears the gap between the jamb and the door edge was just manufactured that way. The clearance is just too small. Couple that with a door edge that is not beveled makes it tight as it closes. Really just the leading edge. It rubs a tiny bit as it is closed. See the pic shown below.

As I understand it a normal wood door would have the leading edge beveled so it did not rub as it closes. This door is fiberglass and the edge is left squared off. That leading edge rubs ever so slightly as it closes. I don't want to bother painting the jambs until this is fixed because it would just rub the paint off.
 
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  #4  
Old 11-03-17, 07:33 AM
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Make sure that the hinges are tight. Don't depend on the factory.
 
  #5  
Old 11-03-17, 05:28 PM
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No modern door has beveled edges.
I get calls like this I start on the hinge side and check with a 6' level to see if the jamb is flat and level.
Then check the threshold with a 2' level.
Next I check on the hinge side with a framing square top and bottom.
Everything checks out I figure the latch side jamb is not at right angles to the wall.
That's why I always carry 3" long trim screws.
 
  #6  
Old 11-03-17, 05:33 PM
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Check the mortise depth on both sides of each hinge. The hinges should be flush with the wood on each side. If the hinge protrudes at all, the mortise can be chiseled deeper.

If all the mortises seem fine, you can tip the hinge with a slight shim under the half of the hinge that is closest to the weatherstrip. So (hope this makes sense) you would remove the hinge screws (jamb side) and slip a couple dimes or pennies under the hinge... but keep them on the half of the hinge mortise that is closest to the weatherstrip. What this will do is move the hinge pin a little farther away from the latch side... and will open that gap about 1/16" more.
 
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