Installing storm door in opening with issues

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Old 08-06-18, 09:42 AM
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Installing storm door in opening with issues

Garage walk door framed over foundation exterior beam lip,jamb sits on wood framing which has sawn(by the mason) half brick facing. The mortor bed has released 3 of the brick(loose but jammed in place).

It appears that rain will eventually rot the base plate/jamb, so I'm trying to determine the best method to fix the issue before installing the storm door.

Second part of my question is fitting the storm door into the 36" opening where the door frame sits only 1/2" each side adjacent to the brick mold(without a 1" filler brick mold is 1 3/" deep to the door frame). I had a sliding screen previously in this opening and 1" shim for attaching.

Larson information shows 1"x 1" space required to attached the storm door. Will the 1/2 depth at each each of the opening present a problem?
 
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Old 08-06-18, 10:34 AM
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Your storm door will sit on the brickmold, which is 1" thick. The storm door sweep will sweep on the concrete in front of the aluminum door sill. I don't see any problem with any of that. If you wish, you can add a 1/2" stop onto the back side of the z-bar. Best to do that after the door is installed so that you don't put it in the wrong spot.
 
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Old 08-07-18, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by XSleeper View Post
Your storm door will sit on the brickmold, which is 1" thick. The storm door sweep will sweep on the concrete in front of the aluminum door sill. I don't see any problem with any of that. If you wish, you can add a 1/2" stop onto the back side of the z-bar. Best to do that after the door is installed so that you don't put it in the wrong spot.
I should have phrased part of my inquiry better. Three of the 4 sawn brick are loose from the mortar( I know I need to repoint the joints) but what about being loose from the mortar bed?. Is there a potential problem with migration of water under the brick? I wasn't present when this part of the brick were installed but assume flashing was used for the framing under the jamb.

Thank you.
 
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Old 08-07-18, 06:39 AM
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You can repoint the edges but it would be far better to remove, clean up, and reset the brick. The joint between the brick/mortar and your aluminum sill will need to be caulked.
 
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Old 08-07-18, 01:42 PM
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Thank you for the information and assistance.

I think the threshold must be removed before repairing the mortar as the jamb sets tight on top. Is there a means to remove and reinstall the brick on the mortar bed without removing the Threshold?
 
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Old 08-07-18, 03:07 PM
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In that case, repoint it and replace the bricks someday when you replace the door.
 
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Old 08-07-18, 10:00 PM
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As the mortar bed was loose, I was able to remove the brick/mortar from beneath the threshold. Don't know if the threshold was in place when the house was constructed, but it appears that I can slip new brick( about 1/2" thick) on mortar under the threshold.

From time to time I use this doorway to move wheelbarrow loads of compost to that part of the yard, that may have been what loosened the mortar bed. The weight of compost and wheelbarrow is probably 200+ lbs.

I'll have to saw some more brick( these are concrete brick and brittle,pieces broke when slipped out). Should I remove the threshold to do this repair? I can see some caulk under the threshold, but can't move the adjusting screws and am not certain how it's attached other than the frame sitting on top.
Also is there a special mortar I should use, the mortar on the brick pieces doesn't appear to be as coarse as that filling the joints.

Thank you.
 
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Old 08-07-18, 10:05 PM
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You should not remove just the threshold, because the door jambs are stapled to it, so removing just the sill and threshold weakens the whole door. Like I said, the whole prehung door would need to come out.... sill, threshold, jambs, trim, and all.

Solid concrete blocks can be purchased in a variety of thicknesses.

Use "mortar mix."
 
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Old 08-08-18, 05:50 AM
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Thank you, many times for the information!
 
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Old 08-08-18, 07:06 AM
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What's your view on filling the threshold with foam to make a form on one side for poured concrete which would be 1" thick, doing away with the brick filler pieces and mortar?

Lowes and Home depot only stock 4" min. thick mfgd concrete blocks. A brick yard may have veneer brick.

I'm down to sawing brick, which I don't relish.
 
 

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