New construction window: securing shims ?

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Old 10-25-18, 02:19 PM
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New construction window: securing shims ?

I haven't been able to find an answer to this. I am going to put in a new construction vinyl window with the nail flange in an open stud wood construction opening. The window is a large window with small sliders on each side.

After the window is nailed into place do the bottom shims and side shims need to be secured? I've seen one manufacturer recommend drilling a hole through the side and driving a screw through the inside of the vinyl window through the shims but other manufacturers don't mention this.

So am I supposed to secure the bottom and side shims in place or will the nail flange keep the window square? Thanks in advance
 
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Old 10-25-18, 03:35 PM
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Where are the shims located? Are they inside the window between the moving sashes and the frame or are they outside the frame where they would go between the window frame and rough opening?
 
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Old 10-25-18, 03:44 PM
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Pilot Dane

Outside the frame between the window frame and rough opening.

I've also seen instructions where one manufacturer says to secure the shims using sealant.
 
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Old 10-25-18, 05:57 PM
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You use shims and place them wherever the mfg recommends. (You should never rely on the nail fin only) Often they want the shims a certain specified distance from each corner... and no farther apart than 12" on the sides... and generally none on the top. The shims should stay 3/4" or so away from the nail fin... (insulate that gap when you foam the window.)

You "can" place a screw through the window frame to secure each shim but that is often unnecessary. I don't like putting holes in the windows unless that is what the mfg specifically says to do. I will typically leave the shims long (protruding past the window toward the inside) then pop a finish nail through them and cut them off just behind the sheetrock. Add window and door foam (low expansion) to the perimeter of the window. Then apply the "interior stop / extension jamb" on top of those shims so that once you apply the casing, it keeps everything symmetrical with the window. Or if you have drywall returns, (no trim) the same applies.
 
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Old 10-25-18, 08:28 PM
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Thanks XSleeper

I don't want to put a screw through the window. I like the idea with keeping the shims long, using a finish nail to secure them, and extension jambs over them.

I'll review the manufacturer's instructions again. Everything else seems fairly straight-forward.

Thanks again
 
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Old 10-25-18, 08:49 PM
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Glad to help.

One thing you might keep in your back pocket when you go to trim the window... I generally make my jambs like a frame... rip the 4 pieces on a table saw... (jamb stock works well... or solid wood like poplar, pine or oak) take measurements for the extension jamb frame, subtract 1/16" or so... nail that frame together like a box (using butt joints)... then set that frame on the shims. I flush it up with the wall on each corner and nail through the shims.

Then assuming there is a gap here or there between the jamb and the window, (seems no wall thickness is perfect all the way around) I trim the perimeter of the window with a baseshoe on all 4 sides to cover that gap. Looks nice too. Flushing the jamb with the wall on the corners helps your casing miters lay perfectly... and they will be perfect 45s, assuming the window is square (lol). When the jamb is recessed, it turns your casing miters into a compound angle.
 
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