Window replacement questions

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Old 02-05-19, 05:57 PM
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Window replacement questions

Hey guys and gals first post here. So time has come my wife wore me down about replacing our windows. I have 30 wood sash Andersen Some are rough but sheís had it with them. So my first real concern is these are builders grade and Iíd like to go to replacement. Problem is I have aluminum siding that Iím not planning to replace at this time Is this doable? Iím realize if can be done with vinyl by flexing but with aluminum it will crease. Is this an option.

Next and im sure Iíll get a million answers and someone telling me to do my research. Iím thinking vinyl what brand should I look at or stay away from. Price is a factor bc I have 18 windows but donít plan on going budget.

Thanks for for the help.
 
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Old 02-05-19, 06:26 PM
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I would have to see a picture of your windows... maybe a closeup inside and out with the bottom sash open, showing the sill and trim and aluminum siding.

The age of the window might make the install easier or harder, depending on the year your windows were made... Andersen has had many styles of windows over the years.

There are hundreds of vinyl window brands out there and everyone has an opinion. Your location may play some factor and you don't have your profile filled out completely.
 
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Old 02-06-19, 01:06 AM
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Any time you limit your access to the exterior perimeter of a window the less likely the installation and sealing will be robust.

Sooo may window choices, there is no one best selection depending on the application.

So far every replacement I have completed I was able to use new construction style windows with exterior nailing flanges with excellent results but they required some modification of the exterior siding!
 
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Old 02-06-19, 06:48 AM
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We just replaced 7 more windows in our 1920 home with double hung triple glazed vinyl models. They match the interior trim colors, stained wood and painted rooms.The outside are white like our trim. They did not have to touch the interior or exterior trim to install. You will be shocked by the cost of good windows these days. You can buy cheap, but that's what you'll get in terms of performance.
 
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Old 02-06-19, 08:03 AM
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What windows did you decide to go with? Also I will look at getting some pictures hung this evening to better asses if I can go with replacement windows.
 
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Old 02-06-19, 08:15 AM
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clarification

Sorry I should clarify I have new construction windows and am looking to replace with a replacement. And the challenge is the aluminum siding So I guess what are my options. Again Iíll get some pictures up tonight.
 
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Old 02-06-19, 06:45 PM
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Pics

Hey. Can some one give me instruction on how to post pics ?
 
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Old 02-06-19, 06:48 PM
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Old 02-07-19, 04:19 AM
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Thanks for the info Here are various angles of the window as you can see siding butts right up to window no j channel

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Last edited by PJmax; 02-11-19 at 07:40 PM. Reason: enlarged/reoriented pictures
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Old 02-07-19, 06:55 AM
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Wow, that's too bad. Yeah my folks had those exact windows in my bedroom when I was growing up. You will find that they are kind of a pain to get the old sashes out.

I don't have an easy answer for you. If you want to do a total frame replacement, getting the old frame out won't be too tough... you will just cut around the old frame with a Sawzall to cut through the caulking and nail fin... then cut the frame into pieces, making 2 cuts per side so that those pieces come out without any prying.

Problem is where you go from there. You can't use a window with a nailing fin... not unless you add 2x4s to each side of the opening. I *hate* putting in replacement windows that have no nail fin... (I think it's morally wrong lol) because the nail fin is your exterior flashing. As long as no water gets behind the siding it works, but if you caulk the siding to the window and water gets behind the siding, that water can run right into the rough opening and into the house.

If you do go that route, you could get a new construction window, the same size as your existing one, and just slip it back in and caulk it. Then hope your siding never leaks or your caulking never goes bad and goes unnoticed.

Other option is leaving the frame in place and put a vinyl replacement window into that existing frame. You would need to add some white pvc stops to the existing frame once you gut the sashes. Typically you want the 3 1/4" replacement window to sit 2" back from the exterior. Then you would likely also need to add some type of interior stop to cover up the gap between the window and your casing.

Of the 2 options, the retrofit replacement is probably easier.
 
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Old 02-07-19, 03:19 PM
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Retrofit

yea the intent I guess would be replacement cut flanges and put in replacement windows. Ultimately I want to replace siding to vinyl but itís not in budget now. I just have to figure out what to do with where siding meets window frame. I assume the replacement will be slightly smaller and the frame wonít sit flush with siding. Would I add j channel to make up this gap if any? My uncle who is a contractor is considering helping but I may contract it out and let a professional company advise. Iím sure itís not the first they dealt with it. Iím looking for the right questions to ask so I can assure itís being done corrrctly.
 
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Old 02-07-19, 03:32 PM
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I just have to figure out what to do with where siding meets window frame.
If you put a replacement in the old frame, you don't do anything to the siding or caulking or old window frame.
 
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Old 02-09-19, 03:02 PM
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Old saying ..."Measure Twice ..Cut Once"

Modern vinyl replacement windows often are available in ĹĒ increment heights and widths.

As a DIYer replaced my original ones years ago.

First, I removed a window then measured frame opening to get max dimensions for replacement. All original windows were from same manufacturer, although of different sizes.

Used dimensions from old window to scale up or down for other window sizes. From catalogs I picked largest windows that would fit into openings.

Assuming Hawkdrive can find replacements within 1/2Ē that would leave 1/4Ē gap around window perimeter to be caulked. That should result in minimum cosmetic issues. Deep parts of gap, between window and framing, was filled with minimum expansive spray foam.

A foot note: The new window matchup/alignment with interior window frames required minimum caulking and occasional white touch up paint.
 

Last edited by doughess; 02-09-19 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 02-09-19, 03:08 PM
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FWIW, most vinyl windows are available in 1/8" increments.
 
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Old 02-11-19, 07:15 PM
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For the DIYer removing an old one first will be major help understanding issues and ordering correct size.

Would also consider getting slightly smaller size of model considered from local dealer (HomeDepot, etc.) and checking it out in opening. Many dealers stock them in 2” hight and width increments.

After checking it out return to dealer. That is better than ordering 12 windows and finding unforeseen issues.
 
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