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Zinser Bullseye 123 Primer over Oil Based Paint

Zinser Bullseye 123 Primer over Oil Based Paint

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  #1  
Old 10-13-19, 06:39 PM
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Zinser Bullseye 123 Primer over Oil Based Paint

Is Bullseye 123 any good for priming old oil base doors and frames? So far I have sprayed half of our interior doors with it and top coated them with SW Pro-Classic, but I have only half finished their frames, which are being brushed.

Have I screwed up? Neither the primer coats nor the top coats are bubbling, but when I sand down a flaw in the frame it is pretty easy to go through to the old paint. But the primer coat is less than a week old and I believe it takes 30 days to maximize adhesion.

The folks at a big box store selling Valspar Bonding Primer tell me that nothing but a bonding primer will do. Of course one of them also said that the Valspar Bonding Primer will ruin a sprayer the first time you use it, but I notice on line that both the Valspar and big box store representative say you can spray it.

At this point I have half a dozen more doors and frames to do. If a good idea, I will do pick up a bonding primer for them and I will even sand the 123 and SW ProClassic off the frames that are done, but I really don't see the percentage in messing with those finished 6 doors unless their paint job starts to get weird.

Suggestions, please.
 
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Old 10-14-19, 03:43 AM
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I'm not fond of using a latex primer over oil base enamel but Zinnser does claim that 123 will bond over oil enamel so it may be ok. I've always used either an oil base primer or pigmented shellac.

one of them also said that the Valspar Bonding Primer will ruin a sprayer the first time you use it,
While I'm not familiar with that particular primer, I've sprayed a wide range of coatings thru airless pumps over the years including latex, oil base and shellac based coatings. None of them will ruin a sprayer! You do need to clean them with the proper thinner for the coating used.
 
  #3  
Old 10-14-19, 02:43 PM
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I am not sure, but think the 123 would work fine, if the preparation I did was better. In a few spots, when going to lightly sand between top coats with 320, the top coat and the primer comes off very easily. But in most places it is a chore to sand the top coat and 123 down. I guess the problem is in too many spots the adhesion between the old glossy oil base and the latex 123 primer is just too tentative.

I started to sand everything off the frame in preparation of a bonding primer, and it is a lot of work. I am wondering if I can get away with sanding down the entire suffer in prep of a final top coat, but spot painting any places where the primer and top coat easily comes off. Being extra careful to rough them up with sanding before primering.

Bad idea?

I wondered about what the guy at the Big Box store said about the Valspar Bonding Primer ruining a sprayer. Specifically, I wondered if he knew what he was talking about. Even the Valspar Q&A site says it can be sprayed.
 
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Old 10-14-19, 03:39 PM
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Bullseye 123 is pretty decent primer and bonds well to a lot of surfaces including tile... But if you want the best adhesion you should wait about 7 days before painting it. It takes longer to cure on surfaces like tile or oil paint because it can only dry to one side... Outward. If you try to scratch it off after 7 days the bond is way better.
 
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Old 10-14-19, 06:47 PM
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Thanks XSleeper. I went to the SW store and talked with the manager about the Bullseye 123, which I had gotten elsewhere. As for the work painted to date, he explained how to finish it. I asked if I should be using a "bonding" primer for the remaining several doors and frames and he could have sold me some expensive primer, but he said just to use the 123 but be a bit more careful to rough the old paint with paper and to use a deglosser.

The door jambs with which I had some problems were indeed topcoated only three days after being primed and that would partially explain the poor adhesion in a few spots. Fortunately, I only had time to prime the other three jambs so far worked on, before I had to take a short trip. I will leave them alone until a week past priming them.
 
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Old 10-15-19, 05:41 PM
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Since it seems Bullseye 123 is a pretty good product and I noted it took some effort to sand it and the one coat of SW Pro-Classic down to the old oil paint, I elected to simply give everything a light sanding and apply another coat of Bullseye. As for the jambs so far only painted with a single coat of Bullseye, they are getting a second coat. I will let everything cure for a week before top coating.

I am guessing that the spots where the top coat and primer coat came off very easily may not have been covered with much primer
 
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