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Gap At Exterior (Front) Door Bottom--Weatherproofing

Gap At Exterior (Front) Door Bottom--Weatherproofing

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Old 11-02-19, 12:22 PM
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Gap At Exterior (Front) Door Bottom--Weatherproofing

So I am getting around to weatherproofing the house (California, built in 1990) we bought in May from the 2nd owner, a flipper, who bought from original owners in the previous year.

The exterior front door has a clear gap (maybe 1/8th inch, sunlight visible through it) on the door bottom on the non-hinge side. I did a measure of the door height on both sides and they seem to be equal. I then applied a level to the bottom door edge and the sill: the sill showed level while the door bottom had a slight skew.

I pulled off the door sweep and there was no problem with the fins.

All gaps between door edges and the frame look equidistant along the left, right and top, so it does not appear to be a problem with the door hang.

How would you deal with this problem? I am thinking I need a different kind of door sweep, but there may be more involved. For instance before putting on a different sweep, do I have to plane (will have to buy one) the door bottom toward the hinge side?
 
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Old 11-02-19, 12:27 PM
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First, see if your threshold is adjustable. Often it just needs a slight adjustment.
 
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Old 11-02-19, 01:01 PM
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I took some photos. I don't see how the aluminum threshold can be adjusted at all. I have a photo of the door with the sweep on and removed.
 
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Old 11-02-19, 01:09 PM
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Looks like someone has hung a different door on that jamb. When the door is closed, what does the gap above the door look like?
 
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Old 11-02-19, 01:20 PM
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Photos of the top part (left, right, top edges), and of the whole door. Looks like it's the original to me. I see no daylight gaps through those parts by the way.
 
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Old 11-02-19, 01:27 PM
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The reveals do look good.

So your door bottom looks like the kind that slips over both sides of the door. My guess is that isn't the original/ right kind of door bottom for the door.

If you take the hinge pins out and take the door off so that you can lay it on its side, you might be able to tell us more. Some doors are flat on the bottom and the door bottom gets glued and stapled on. Other kinds have one or two grooves and the door bottom will have kerfs that fit into the groove. But I don't know of any door that's original sold with that U-shaped slip over the bottom of he door style. That's almost strictly an aftermarket fix.
 
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Old 11-02-19, 02:01 PM
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So I pulled the door off and took some images of the bottom edge (door sweep off and leaned next to it) and also the top edge of the door, so you can see its construction. What do you think?
 
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Old 11-02-19, 02:26 PM
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I believe the style of door bottom that was originally on there is discontinued. Here is a link.

https://allaboutdoors.com/Door-Botto...-Snap-In-Brown

I don't think this style will snap in the same way. https://www.allaboutdoors.com/36-Inc...1-3-4-Inch-Doo

So that explains why the aftermarket sweep is on there. So with the door closed, you probably just need to shift your sweep down until it's tight, then use new screw locations so that it seals better.
 
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Old 11-02-19, 03:53 PM
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Advice worked perfectly. I set up the sweep with the door closed, pushing it down across door bottom, and tapping it also to the non-hinge side to close a gap (yes the sweep frame sticks out on the latch side a bit). Then I drilled new holes in the door (took a while for the bits to get through the light metal), then screwed in.

The photos show how the non-hinge/latch side angles down more, the white paint border showing now, both on the inside and outside of the door in the close-ups. But there is no light gap on the bottom now and there is a slight uniform resistance in the door closing throughout the radial movement as the sweep contacts the threshold.

Thanks
 
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