I need to replace the rollers on the bottom of my door. The door is a vinyl door and looks to be a preassembled unit. I can see no screws anywhere in the frame. I have removed the stop at the top end of the unit. I have retracted the wheels all the way. The door and frame are each one piece with nothing that can be taken apart. There is nothing on top of the door in the frame nor are there top rollers of any kind. I am able to lift each end of the door, one end at a time, enough to clear the frame at the bottom edge if I slide the door to either end. It appears that the bottom frame edge is higher in the middle than at the ends. I measured the distance between the top frame edge and bottom frame edge and it is about 1/8th of an inch less in the center of the door than at the ends. I can only assume that there has been settling of the house and the frame squeezed so it has maybe buckled. You can tell there is a problem because the door opens hard at first, then gets easier. When closing, it comes easily at first and then gets harder at the end. The only solution I can see it to shave some off the bottom frame edge to allow clearance. The problem with that is I don't know if the piece is solid or hollow. I would rather do something else rather than damage the look of the frame. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Bottle jack and a 2x4 sitting on top, cut to fit between the jack and the top of the door frame. Jack it just enough to get the rollers to clear. It often helps to have 2 people lift those doors out... one on each side.

 

You can remove the trim and see if shims were used to help position the door within the rough opening. If the header has sagged you may need to remove the shims to get the sliding door frame back to it's original size.

 

I agree with needing two people to lift the door.
It's almost impossible for one person to lift it level.

 

Thanks for the ideas. I thought of jacking the frame up but won't work. This is a vinyl, unit door. The edge of the bottom and top track are less than 1/4" wide so I doubt they would take that much pressure without breaking. I can't put the 2/4 in the top track because there is a 1/4+ space between the top of the door frame and the opening in the wall.
As for the other suggestion, there is no trim around the door so I can see that the door frame sits in the wall opening without any shims.
I think the only thing I can do at this point is grind a bit off the bottom door frame edge to get the door bottom to pass over it. I hesitate because it will show if I can't get a nice smooth edge.

 

I dont think you are thinking outside the box.

Slide the door open, until it is centered in the frame... in other words, half open. Lay a short piece of 2x4 on either side of the door. Put a bottle jack on top of that 2x4. Put a 2x4 on top of the bottle jack that has another short block of 2x4 fastened to the top of it, like a T. That short piece of 2x4 can be placed right next to your sliding door panel (which is likely 2" thick) and the 2x4 will spread the weight out as you jack it up. Do this on each side and you can surely gain the 1/4" you need to get the door out.

I have only worked with doors and windows for 30 years, but I havent had a door that I couldn't get out yet.

 

I do understand what you are telling me to do and previously thought of jacking it. I can't set the jacks close to the middle where they are needed because I need room for us to get in there and get a hold on the door. It is a 4' door and quite heavy with only 1/2" clearance between the one door and the other so I can barely get my fingers in there to grasp it. I cannot lift it by myself. By the time I take up a foot on each end for the jacks there is not much room to situate and grab hold of the door. Also, if the jacks are close to the end I am afraid it will split the frame in the corners.
I appreciate your expertise but don't know if I am confident enough to use the jacks, even if I had them.