Front Door Project
#1
06-25-20, 07:56 PM
Front Door Project
Starting the plans to replace the front door. I will demo and prep the opening but have a company do the install. I'm doing the prep because there are certain things I want to make sure is aesthetically correct. For example the wood threshold below the door (slab foundation) currently sits crooked because when they poured the concrete pocket the forms were crooked. Ran into this when I did my sliders.
Anyway, looking to deconstruct the door so I can start. On the hinge side it's easy to figure out how this was installed. On the sidelight side I'm not sure. The nails look like they are behind the sidelight going into the wall framing, which would require the sidelight to go in after the frame was installed. Looking at the pictures does it look like this door was assembled on site? i.e. casement, then sidelight, strike jamb and finally door? The first 2 pics are an example of where they put a shim from both inside and outside. There is no nail head on the outside (determined by magnet).
Anyway, looking to deconstruct the door so I can start. On the hinge side it's easy to figure out how this was installed. On the sidelight side I'm not sure. The nails look like they are behind the sidelight going into the wall framing, which would require the sidelight to go in after the frame was installed. Looking at the pictures does it look like this door was assembled on site? i.e. casement, then sidelight, strike jamb and finally door? The first 2 pics are an example of where they put a shim from both inside and outside. There is no nail head on the outside (determined by magnet).
Last edited by PJmax; 08-03-20 at 07:30 PM. Reason: resized/enhanced pics
#2
06-25-20, 09:28 PM
Group Moderator
Don't know, but it really doesnt matter how they did it. You typically just run a sawzall around the perimeter of the door and cut all the nails off in order to get the door out.
#3
06-26-20, 01:31 PM
I just need to be able to have the ability to reinstall it back while I wait for the new door. I guess I could do as you suggest, then just sink some 3" screws through the jambs to hold it until the new door arrives. Not to concerned about aesthetics of the old door.
#5
08-03-20, 07:07 PM
So I have discovered that on the hinge side of the door, the wall is perfectly plumb. On the latch side (actually sidelight) the wall is out of plumb about 3/8" inch total top to bottom of door leaning out. This is evident on the outside since one side of the stucco mould is twisted in at the bottom to fit up against the door jamb. The door is also out of plumb (leans out).
I can correct the door plumb on the hinge side by pushing the bottom out, which will allow the stucco mould to line up square, and it will fix the door trim issue on the inside where there was a fat bead of caulk (between the door trim and drywall) at the bottom hinge side.
The other side will be more difficult. How does one align the door when the wall is out of plumb? Is it better for the jamb to be even with the drywall at the top or bottom?
I can fix the outside stucco mould with some carpentry padding, though it will might be visible.
I can correct the door plumb on the hinge side by pushing the bottom out, which will allow the stucco mould to line up square, and it will fix the door trim issue on the inside where there was a fat bead of caulk (between the door trim and drywall) at the bottom hinge side.
The other side will be more difficult. How does one align the door when the wall is out of plumb? Is it better for the jamb to be even with the drywall at the top or bottom?
I can fix the outside stucco mould with some carpentry padding, though it will might be visible.
Last edited by Tumble; 08-03-20 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Preplanning, still have current door installed
#6
08-03-20, 07:24 PM
Group Moderator
It depends on the trim you have but generally it's always better if it's even at the top. The bottom can usually be tipped more easily at the bottom without causing problems.
And typically you are often better off if you just swing the door and observe the gap on the door as it closes, then make slight adjustments on all 4 corners of the door regardless of what is truly plumb based on what that reveal looks like. For example, with a slight 1/8 adjustment in on the top left, 1/8" out on bottom right, 1/8" out on top right and 1/8" in on bottom right you are making what would otherwise be a single 1/2" adjustment.
It's often advantageous to do that rather than have one side be dramatically adjusted. Sure it's great when everything is plumb but when the walls arent you are just creating a problem unless you kind of go with it, or at least split the difference.
And typically you are often better off if you just swing the door and observe the gap on the door as it closes, then make slight adjustments on all 4 corners of the door regardless of what is truly plumb based on what that reveal looks like. For example, with a slight 1/8 adjustment in on the top left, 1/8" out on bottom right, 1/8" out on top right and 1/8" in on bottom right you are making what would otherwise be a single 1/2" adjustment.
It's often advantageous to do that rather than have one side be dramatically adjusted. Sure it's great when everything is plumb but when the walls arent you are just creating a problem unless you kind of go with it, or at least split the difference.
[i]Sliding Glass Door - Full View[/i]
[i]Sliding Glass Door - Foam Stripping along side, Felt stripping along bottom, both quite old. Bottom rail, clearly scratched as the door sits directly on it and scratches it when sliding.[/i]
[i]Sliding Glass Door - Top of door, no stripping present.[/i]
[i]Sliding Glass Door - Joint where door panes meet.[/i]
[b]Large Windows on Front of House[/b]
We have 2 large windows at the front of the house. I think these are the next biggest offenders. I'd like to add stripping to these as, they don't seem to have any at all. Any suggestions on how to do that? Also would heat film be beneficial for these windows as well?
[i]Front Windows - No stripping where windows meet on either window[/i]
[i]Front Windows - No stripping on bottom of windows.[/i]
[b]Double Front Door:[/b]
The only thing wrong with this door is the old weather stripping I believe. Both the seal between the two doors, and above and below. When replacing, should I stick with the soft plastic in the middle and metal with plastic pieces on top and bottom? Also what about the plastic strip along the top?
[i]Double Front Door - Soft plastic along the middle. The soft plastic doesn't seal towards the bottom any more. Stripping along top, another strip on frame facing door. Is there a better option than that plastic strip here? There's a plastic seal as well along the bottom of the door which is falling apart. Best stripping to replace?[/i]
[b]Small Windows on Upper Floor[/b]
We have 7 smaller windows on the top floor of the rest of the house. These are hard to slide, and have what looks like fairly old stripping. Should I replace that stripping with the same? Or different kind?
[i]Small Windows - Right side stripping is very old and no longer sealing well. Window sits directly on rail, no stripping inside. Hard to slide. Same on the top of the window.[/i]
[b]Basement Windows[/b]
We have 7 basement windows of the same time. They all hinge out and have a latch which pulls them against the window frame. As far as I can tell, some of these windows have no stripping at all. You can see there's some kind of seal on the outside of the frame which presses against the window when it's latched shut. In every case, this seal is very thin and very old. What would be the best replacement here?
[i]Basement Window - Thin and old stripping on outside of window frame.[/i]
[i]Basement Window - No stripping at all on window itself[/i]
