1st question: I have this vinyl door and the frame is all bowed. It flexes easy it seems. The instructions say shim around the border but screws will only penetrate shims at the strike plate (per the instructions)

the rest of the fasteners go through the nailing fin. Is this correct? Will I be able to get it straight like that?

2nd question: whoever put this deck on years ago seems to have done it different than normal. The ledger board is even with the door opening. Thus I am kind of between a step down and continuous type door. Should I make a step down sill pan of nice colored aluminum and then cut off the lower nailing fin? The ledger board prevents this from being a step down install.

Here’s the instructions: https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/me...oorInstall.pdf

 

Yes, you will want to cut the bottom fin off. Slice it on both sides several times with a sharp utility knife and it will break right off. When you go to set the door, set it in several beads of sealant. OSI Quad sticks to vinyl best. Also be sure you caulk under your pan before you before it or that's a pathway for air.

Your LEDGER is flush with the bottom of the rough opening? Or the tops of your deck boards are flush with the rough opening? It doesnt make sense for the ledger to be flush as that would make the surface of the deck higher than the floor inside!

Generally when flashing a patio door you need to remove all the decking that is under the door sill so that you can flash it correctly. If you havent removed the decking yet, you should.

Yes, you will want to make a step down sill flashing. You can usually do this by making a little saw cut between the joist and the ledger... it only needs to be 1/2" deep to accept the flashing. If that is not possible, run the flashing straight out over the ledger and onto the tops of the joists at least a couple inches.

As for the bowed door frame, Menards is not known for quality vinyl products, so that's not surprising. You should install the door using a long straightedge (like a 72 or 78" long level) and get both the outside fin and the inside jamb perfectly straight. Do the fin first, getting the door plumb level and square. Fasten the flange as often as needed to keep it that way. Then go inside and shim the jamb perimeter every 16" (--or whatever the instructions say) and you will need to put screws through the jamb to hold it straight, checking it with your level to make sure it is not bowed, but is straight as an arrow top to bottom. Same across the top.

Since you are taking the fin off the bottom, it's possible you may need an installation screw in the bottom, but be advised you should really only try to put ONE screw in, (near the middle) and chase it with sealant (such as OSI Quad). That means drill your hole, put sealant on the length of the screw, then install the screw.

 

My ledger is flush with the opening and the joists are mounted slightly below the upper ledger board (see photo). The ledger is like a 2x14 and the joists are 2x12.

 

That's one of the strangest things I have ever seen. You definitely want to make the step down pan flashing, and use sealant under it so no water wicks back under the ends of the pan.

Would be a good idea to flash the rest of the ledger with z-flashing while you're at it... and before it rots the wall behind the ledger.