Plastic block window leaking?
#1
10-31-20, 08:39 AM
Plastic block window leaking?
Hello all, I have a plastic "glass block" window in my bathroom over my bathtub. about 15 years old normally it has a curtain over it so I rarely see it directly. just today my wife noticed some water marks bellow it and when I started poking the drywall under the window it just pulls up and flakes away. its only at the bottom and not the sides. I inspected the exterior calking and it seems very solid.
My thought is that this damage is caused by condensation running down the window and collecting at the bottom in the winter and not from an actual window leak. Another indicator is that we have been having rain for the last several weeks and the interior is as dry as a bone right now.
has anybody had experience with these windows?
My thought is that this damage is caused by condensation running down the window and collecting at the bottom in the winter and not from an actual window leak. Another indicator is that we have been having rain for the last several weeks and the interior is as dry as a bone right now.
has anybody had experience with these windows?
Top Answer
10-31-20, 06:19 PM
Group Moderator
Thats likely a Hy-lite window. One would expect that condensation caused the problem with the drywall. However I have seen failed glazing on the exterior cause problems. Examine the very bottom where all the blocks meet the frame (on the exterior) and look for any gaps or cracks in the sealant. Also I have seen wood siding stuck into windows (which came with an integral j channel) gooped up with caulk. Not a good method of siding installation. Its also possible that the frame was not insulated or air sealed well which, during wintertime, would exacerbate the problem with condensation.
We don't really know which of the above might be the problem. You will have to determine that.
But I would probably suggest you remove the bottom drywall as well as the bottom corner bead. Clean up the rough opening and make sure the bottom of the window is sealed with spray foam... or if it is sitting on the framing tight, with no gap, caulk it.
The proper way to repair the bottom would be to use a mold resistant bathroom drywall. Leave an 1/8 gap between the drywall and the window. Then cut a piece of tear away L bead to fit across the bottom, and test fit it. It needs to drop down into that 1/8" gap. Once you are sure it will fit, spray it with corner bead contact adhesive, mask off the window and spray the drywall lightly with corner bead adhesive. In a few minutes, press it into place firmly. Use the same procedure if you are using a vinyl corner bead in front.
Once your corner bead and tear away L bead are on, tape the bottom left and right corners with paper tape, embedded in mud and wiped down tight. Your first coat or two should be with a setting compound, which is moisture resistant. Durabond 90 or an Easy Sand lightweight setting compound. Durabond cannot be sanded so if you use it be sure you do it neatly, without leaving large ridges. Your knife will run along the tear away L bead, and the vertical fin will keep the window clean as you apply your 1st, 2nd and 3rd coats. Once you have got it smooth and sanded, you can cut a bit of the vertical fin of the tearaway L bead with a knife, then use that as a tab to pull the rest of the fin off.
After you prime the new drywall, caulk the edge of the window, then paint.
We don't really know which of the above might be the problem. You will have to determine that.
But I would probably suggest you remove the bottom drywall as well as the bottom corner bead. Clean up the rough opening and make sure the bottom of the window is sealed with spray foam... or if it is sitting on the framing tight, with no gap, caulk it.
The proper way to repair the bottom would be to use a mold resistant bathroom drywall. Leave an 1/8 gap between the drywall and the window. Then cut a piece of tear away L bead to fit across the bottom, and test fit it. It needs to drop down into that 1/8" gap. Once you are sure it will fit, spray it with corner bead contact adhesive, mask off the window and spray the drywall lightly with corner bead adhesive. In a few minutes, press it into place firmly. Use the same procedure if you are using a vinyl corner bead in front.
Once your corner bead and tear away L bead are on, tape the bottom left and right corners with paper tape, embedded in mud and wiped down tight. Your first coat or two should be with a setting compound, which is moisture resistant. Durabond 90 or an Easy Sand lightweight setting compound. Durabond cannot be sanded so if you use it be sure you do it neatly, without leaving large ridges. Your knife will run along the tear away L bead, and the vertical fin will keep the window clean as you apply your 1st, 2nd and 3rd coats. Once you have got it smooth and sanded, you can cut a bit of the vertical fin of the tearaway L bead with a knife, then use that as a tab to pull the rest of the fin off.
After you prime the new drywall, caulk the edge of the window, then paint.
#2
10-31-20, 08:57 AM
Group Moderator
Depending on your location condensation is a possibility. You can verify by looking at the window periodically when it's raining and during winter.
#3
10-31-20, 09:04 AM
Since there is little you can do to prevent condensation forming on the inside of the window, I suggest you modify the inside base of the window by adding a water resistant material to create a slope. The high side should be at the window block . The material should adhere to the glass block so the dripping condensation doesn't get to the drywall below. Since I am not a builder/contractor, hopefully some of the member builders/ contractors can post recommend material.
#4
10-31-20, 03:27 PM
Member
[QUOTE] have a plastic "glass block" window in my bathroom over my bathtub. about 15 years old[/QUOTE
Any window in a bathroom that never sees condensation is probably zero.
Any window in a bathroom that never sees condensation is probably zero.
clancy
voted this post useful.
#5
10-31-20, 06:19 PM
Group Moderator
Thats likely a Hy-lite window. One would expect that condensation caused the problem with the drywall. However I have seen failed glazing on the exterior cause problems. Examine the very bottom where all the blocks meet the frame (on the exterior) and look for any gaps or cracks in the sealant. Also I have seen wood siding stuck into windows (which came with an integral j channel) gooped up with caulk. Not a good method of siding installation. Its also possible that the frame was not insulated or air sealed well which, during wintertime, would exacerbate the problem with condensation.
We don't really know which of the above might be the problem. You will have to determine that.
But I would probably suggest you remove the bottom drywall as well as the bottom corner bead. Clean up the rough opening and make sure the bottom of the window is sealed with spray foam... or if it is sitting on the framing tight, with no gap, caulk it.
The proper way to repair the bottom would be to use a mold resistant bathroom drywall. Leave an 1/8 gap between the drywall and the window. Then cut a piece of tear away L bead to fit across the bottom, and test fit it. It needs to drop down into that 1/8" gap. Once you are sure it will fit, spray it with corner bead contact adhesive, mask off the window and spray the drywall lightly with corner bead adhesive. In a few minutes, press it into place firmly. Use the same procedure if you are using a vinyl corner bead in front.
Once your corner bead and tear away L bead are on, tape the bottom left and right corners with paper tape, embedded in mud and wiped down tight. Your first coat or two should be with a setting compound, which is moisture resistant. Durabond 90 or an Easy Sand lightweight setting compound. Durabond cannot be sanded so if you use it be sure you do it neatly, without leaving large ridges. Your knife will run along the tear away L bead, and the vertical fin will keep the window clean as you apply your 1st, 2nd and 3rd coats. Once you have got it smooth and sanded, you can cut a bit of the vertical fin of the tearaway L bead with a knife, then use that as a tab to pull the rest of the fin off.
After you prime the new drywall, caulk the edge of the window, then paint.
We don't really know which of the above might be the problem. You will have to determine that.
But I would probably suggest you remove the bottom drywall as well as the bottom corner bead. Clean up the rough opening and make sure the bottom of the window is sealed with spray foam... or if it is sitting on the framing tight, with no gap, caulk it.
The proper way to repair the bottom would be to use a mold resistant bathroom drywall. Leave an 1/8 gap between the drywall and the window. Then cut a piece of tear away L bead to fit across the bottom, and test fit it. It needs to drop down into that 1/8" gap. Once you are sure it will fit, spray it with corner bead contact adhesive, mask off the window and spray the drywall lightly with corner bead adhesive. In a few minutes, press it into place firmly. Use the same procedure if you are using a vinyl corner bead in front.
Once your corner bead and tear away L bead are on, tape the bottom left and right corners with paper tape, embedded in mud and wiped down tight. Your first coat or two should be with a setting compound, which is moisture resistant. Durabond 90 or an Easy Sand lightweight setting compound. Durabond cannot be sanded so if you use it be sure you do it neatly, without leaving large ridges. Your knife will run along the tear away L bead, and the vertical fin will keep the window clean as you apply your 1st, 2nd and 3rd coats. Once you have got it smooth and sanded, you can cut a bit of the vertical fin of the tearaway L bead with a knife, then use that as a tab to pull the rest of the fin off.
After you prime the new drywall, caulk the edge of the window, then paint.
#6
10-31-20, 06:42 PM
Group Moderator
As an alternative idea, you could install 1/2" cement board and tile that bottom ledge. It would be a little easier to wipe dry with a towel as needed, if condensation running down the window in winter is the only problem.
dandunham
voted this post useful.
#8
11-02-20, 06:06 AM
I took another look at the exterior of the window and did notice some hairline cracking between the blocks that might be part of the problem. any idea if these windows are one solid sheet of plastic that is just made to look like block? or does the calking actually do something. I have added some pics to show what I am talking about.
#9
11-02-20, 06:41 AM
Group Moderator
As far as I know, they are individual acrylic blocks that are simply assembled and glazed together, just like glass block is.
dandunham
voted this post useful.
#11
11-05-20, 08:34 AM
Group Moderator
It doesn't look like those cracks are enough to let in significant amounts of water. You can put a little caulk on your fingertip and smudge/force caulk into the cracks to seal them but I don't think that will help your water issue inside.
[i]full door pic[/i]
[i]leaks from interior under the door ?[/i]
[i]Exterior weep hole is not clogged : But once the water goes it comes out the inside ? that's not right ![/i]
[i]weep holes on exterior on both sides[/i]
[i]no weep holes on outside under door : where does the water come out after it goes into the weep holes ? something does not seem right here ?[/i]
