I'm going through the process of replacing my very leaky/drafty doors with new ones and next would be the windows. After that, I'll be hiring somebody to do the air sealing in the home, then insulation and finally get a new HVAC system based on Manual J calculations, etc. I'm basically trying to do the right thing to make this 100 year old home in the north east comfortable but at the same time, not spend through the roof. The good thing is that most of the above are very old anyways - the central HVAC system is 20 years old, the doors much older and the windows a mix
Can somebody take a look at these pictures? In the pic where you see the steel rails/tracks, I can very easily feel the cold air coming in. The other type of window has a plastic covering but you still feel cold air. Are quality 2-pane windows constructed in a different manner that you would not feel any draft from the sides?
Also, instead of replacement, is there an easy way to close out the draft in the winter
Rather than unwinding the balances to install them, (which requires a spiral balance winding tool and a little knowledge of how to use it) I would suggest you simply slit the back side of the foam with a knife and slip them on.
No. You tip the window down like you are going to clean it. Then you put that foam block in the side channel. The slit I mentioned allows you to slip it over the spiral part of the balance and then slide it upward in the channel. The hole in the center slips over the end of the spiral balance. So they are positioned very near the center of the window, just below the tilt latches.
Whether they are an exact fit for your windows is anyone's guess. But it is just a foam block so if its too wide, just trim it with a utility knife.
Needing to replace skylights. Looking at Home Depot, I'm not seeing proper replacement sizes. However, I want to confirm I'm looking for the right size. I measured the box on which the "cap" or skylight sits. See attached pics for those measurements. Based on what I'm seeing, should I be looking for a 26.5 x 50" replacement or is there something else I should be measuring to ensure I get the correct replacements?
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I'll be installing a 36" barn door in the near future, and was wondering if I need to (or should) secure a board (2x6, 2x8) to the wall and attach the rail to the board, or if it's okay to bolt the rail directly to the wall. There's a 2x12 beam behind that runs the full length of the room so I'm not concerned about strength, but rather if the mounting hardware will sink into the Sheetrock and look unsightly. It's an office/guest room so I'd like to keep the door as close to the wall as possible, so no board is the desirable option, but not if it will cause issues with the Sheetrock.