Rubbing Bathroom Door - Loose Hinge Screw
#1
08-26-21, 06:40 AM
Rubbing Bathroom Door - Loose Hinge Screw
I have a bathroom door rubbing at the top. The root cause is the top screw on the hinge being loose not keeping the hinge flush resulting in a sagging door. I tried to tighten but the screw spins freely. Is there any easy way to fill the hole so I can re-use the existing hole? I could try a thicker screw but I suspect too much material loss.
#2
08-26-21, 06:51 AM
Group Moderator
Is this screw in the door or in the jamb? The hinge attaches to both... If its in the jamb, just use a longer screw / same diameter. A 2 1/2" or 3" screw will be long enough to reach the stud. If its in the door, you would likely need to drill, and plug the door with a dowel or golf tee and wood glue. Sometimes you can glue toothpicks or wood matchsticks in, along with your screw. Use wood glue. MDF doors are notorious for stripping out, its a poor material for doors.
#3
08-26-21, 06:59 AM
Thanks for reply. It is in the jamb. Longer screw is obvious and I should have thought of it. If I push the hinge deep into the jamb preset groove, it should be fine but there’s n out a ton of space given the bottom gap. It should not matter as long as it doesn’t rub, correct?
#4
08-26-21, 08:30 AM
Group Moderator
If it doesn't rub that would be all that is needed for most people. If you want to correct the reveals around the door so they are perfect you would likely need to shim and/or chisel the mortises. So unless that bothers you I would leave well enough alone. Just running screws in and out on doors can often ruin the threads in the wood. Fake wood, even more so.
#5
09-03-21, 07:07 PM
It still rubs. I think frame isn’t square. Should I use planer to remove 1/8” or so about 12” from top and down ? And then repaint?
#9
09-07-21, 10:03 AM
I am not sure if this is an epic failure or success. Belt sander and planner and there's still some rubbing but it's better. Cliff Notes: Father in law took project over while I was out of the house... and he doesn't finish well.. Starts projects... Just doesn't finish.
1) Dumb question (I think) but is flat vs. semi gloss paint the same "thickness"? I'd explain but probably shouldn't
2) How much of the door can I shave w/o it separating given the front/back are essentially glued?
1) Dumb question (I think) but is flat vs. semi gloss paint the same "thickness"? I'd explain but probably shouldn't
2) How much of the door can I shave w/o it separating given the front/back are essentially glued?
#10
09-07-21, 10:18 AM
Group Moderator
Semigloss probably tends to build more mils than flat paint. But doors should usually be painted with a trim enamel, not just ordinary wall paint.
You typically have about 3/4" - 1" of solid material on the edge of a solid core door. So you typically never have to worry about how much you are shaving off the edge.
You typically have about 3/4" - 1" of solid material on the edge of a solid core door. So you typically never have to worry about how much you are shaving off the edge.
#11
09-07-21, 10:20 AM
How do I know if it is "solid core"? We used a chisel and belt sander for quite a bit of time and it was a SLOW process. Then, smoothed it out with sand paper by hand.
