So these windows are 20 years old with the house. Over time the cranks have stripped making it almost impossible to open and close the windows. No clue where to start here. Is it the crank arm itself or the mechanism on the window?
If the window itself is tbis a replaceable part? Hoping don't have to replace the whole window.
You will need new operators. There are left's and rights. Since they are Andersen's they have you over a barrel and you will pay through the nose for them.
There may be different sizes based on the length of the arm that attaches to the sash. You first have to pull the sill cap off, (without breaking it). Then you can disconnect the arms and unscrew it to replace it.
There are a lot of styles of operators so you need to be sure you get the right one. You xan usually determine the year of mfg by looking at the date watermark in the bottom corner of the glass. That can help in getting the right parts. It would also help if you knew the window series. 200 Series / 400 Series, etc.
You can check Amazon, eBay, order parts from Andersen directly or go through any lumber yard or Home Depot or Lowes or a site like Swisco.
And im assuming you can tell the difference between a stripped operator and a stripped handle. Usually the handle is fine, it's the operator that strips internally. I don't believe new operators come with the handles, so you would need to unscrew and reuse your old handles.
Xsleeper thank you so much!!!! Ok first I'll examine both the arm and the operator to confirm which is stripped. Do they sell the arms by themselves? Then ill remove the cover and also try to determine the exact model by looking at the glass. Will post results shortly.
If by arm you mean handle, yes they sell handles separately. Pretty sure it's the ez split arm operator, so I doubt you need to put too much effort into figuring out the model.
Ok makes sense. The model based on the stamp on the glass is Anderson CIG 3 1-01.7. Does it matter or are you saying the split operator you mentioned above will work? I posted closeups of the threads below. Honestly I can't tell which is stripped. Maybe both? Also looking at the split operator I see only one screw.
So sorry. I posted an update here but next day the admins sent me a message saying the post was lost b/c of a system upgrade. then forgot to come back. So I called Anderson directly and after answering a few questions they sent me two new gear boxes/operators. I took a risk and didnt order new handles. Luckily it was the boxes and, once installed, worked perfectly with the original handles. The whole removal and installation too maybe 30 mins start to finish for both windows. And to think the wife just wanted to get new windows installed! I'll tell ya the amount of money I've saved (and stuff I've learned) from this forum is pricless!!!
Seems the paint needs to be gently sanded away..? It’s flaking off.
measures about a half inch too big to close, and the wind bangs it open and breaks the glass…can I use plexiglass..?
should I just cut the doorway/doorframe bigger so it fits normal new exterior doors and scrap these ones..?
keep in mind I will be living in it so it needs to be as airtight as possible..
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My bedroom door has recently become difficult to open and close. I see that the top 2 of the 3 hinges are loose because the screws have lost purchase and will not fully tighten. So the door is sagging a little. If I raise the door by hand while opening and closing, it's easier.
What's the best/easiest solution for loose hinge screws? I'm afraid wider diameter screws won't fit through the hinge holes. Searching the forum found something about sticking wooden match sticks in the holes. I guess they would have to be fragments of match sticks. Is this the best DIY solution?
09-03-21, 07:58 AM
