I am a very handy person which means I can think of a few ways to accomplish this. However, there is often only one 'right way' to do it. So, I need some help. I have a solid wood stain quality screen door I would like to install. It is assembled, but I have to put all of the latches and hinges on. I have all of that ready to go. Anyway, the issue is where I want to install it. The screen door is 1 3/16" thick. However, the place I need to install it is ony 3/4".
So...what is the right way to make this work and do it right? I had considered removing the 1x6 trim and replacing it with 2x6 rough cut cedar, which would obviously allow me the room, but perhaps there is a better way. Can I use some other 2x6 product or is there a trim piece I can use instead? Cedar is awfully expensive.
Screen door thickness Not thick enough to allow for 1 3/16" thick door Overview of what the jamb looks like Due to the handle, the screen door can't get any 'closer' in since the handles will interfere. Where I want to install screen door. This would be the hinge side of the screen door. As you can see, the 'press board' or whatever the hell this is has expanded from moisture at the bottom. This should have been cut short and not touched the concrete. Either way, because of this, I was considering replacing the entire 1x6 trim with 2x6 cedar, cutting it short off the concrete and allowing for the thickness of the door, killing two birds with one stone.
Yeah you could get cedar 2x6 but id suggest it be ripped to 1 1/4" on a table saw. If you don't want to go that route, buy 5/4 PVC trim (it's 1" thick... Azek is one brand) and add two 1/4" fillers (like a 1/4 x 3/4 screen moulding) onto the back side so that it's 1 1/4" thick. The back side won't be seen.
Hi there,
I am trying to create some technical drawings of windows for an LCA study where I will be comparing 3 different window frame materials, but to make the study more accurate I want the thickness of the IGU to be the same.
But to do this I need to know how thick the IGU of the window should be.
[b]I was wondering how one determines the thickness of this? [/b]
I understand that there are different types of IGU out there such as; [color=#222222]low-e, low-e2, bronze, argon or krypton filled, double pane, triple pane, aluminum spacer, swiggle spacer. And these must each have ceretain attributes that make them optimal for specific scenarios - is there official documentation that defines their specific uses to help me choose which one to go for?[/color]
Also does U-value, R-value and G-value come into helping make the decision? - if so are there equations? and again is there any documentation/ standards which show this?
(the project is uk based so maybe uk documentation or standards are best, but anything would still be better than nothing.)
[b]I suppose a better question of what I am asking is: When window companies are tasked with providing windows for a project such as that outlined below; how do they choose what IGU to use and how do they know what thickness is should be? [/b]
The project is located in Aberdeenshire, Scotland and this means the average monthly temperatures are quite low, (see attached image)
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1010x755/cc_temperature_range_a3c3909d18f1a7258cdacffb4ed66347e6bba633.png[/img]
so therefore good insulation and higher solar gain I assume would be a focus. Sound dampening wouldn't be an issue as the project is rural and also security would not be of utmost importance.
If there is anymore information that may be of assistance please let me know.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Hello. I installed a new Andersen Frenchwood hinged patio door a few weeks ago. Both panels can open (active/passive).
The frame is installed level, plumb, and square per the instructions. When I try to adjust the hinges, I'm not able to get a gap that is the width of the adjustment hex key (~1/8") like the instructions and video say should be possible. This is on both of the hinge side jambs. What seems to be happening is that I run out of adjustment range on both the middle and bottom hinges and can't push the door out any further.
We've had some rain the past few days and I'm getting some water between the door and oak threshold. The water is coming in under both doors mostly near the jamb. My thought is maybe this has to do with never getting the hinges adjusted the way the instructions specify.
I called Andersen and they suggested that I have the lumber yard I purchased the door from look at the issue in person. The lumber yard does have a door technician and they are willing to take a look but are booked 4 weeks out.
Any suggestions of things to check while I wait? Thanks!