So i recently had a contractor come and install a storm door (36x80 andersen 2500 series) and a front door (feather rivers 36x80 (37.5 x 81.625)
the rough opening of front entry is 40 x 83.
The reason we replaced both doors is because of the draft that was coming in due to our old front door.
and now we have a 2” gap at the bottom of our storm door thats letting leaves in (located in suburban chicago).
we are worried that snow will get in between the storm door and main door once the winter hits.
we are wondering what the best options would be to fix this problem.
the contractor states he cannot lower the storm door anymore due to the lack of space needed for framing around the storm door and that it will interfere with the strength of the framing if we lower it anymore.
Yeah, that happens when a door made for a 2x4 wall with a wall thickness of 4 9/16" is installed in a thicker wall. You've got more jamb and trim in front of the door sill than your sill is wide. So that moves the storm door out beyond the door sill.
This could have been avoided if he would have gotten a prehung door that was the right thickness for your wall.
It's possible that Andersen might have a 2" sill nose extension for your aluminum threshold... which would close up the gap under the sweep. Other than that, yeah you would need another sweep on the inside of the storm door.
Can't tell for sure cuz I can't see the front edge of the sill.
You would probably best put the sweep inside. I will see if I can find something out about the sill nose.
Edit: looks like Home Depot sells a kit. I've found that typically these need to be installed before the door is installed, and before the storm door goes on. It's a little difficult to do afterward.
Here is the link. But this really ought to be something your installer should be taking care of. This is elementary door installation stuff.
the contractor is stating that since the door is installed correctly that he no longer has any part in it and would need extra pay to do any additional work (he wanted to charge me $200 to reinstall with more wood at the top to cover the gap at the bottom which he couldve done to begin with.)
i would say its unfinished. Or incorrectly installed.
Maybe you could glue a piece or two of vinyl trim (PVC) under the door. Down on the concrete not on the door. Maybe at least get close enough to fill most of the gap and then the door sweep would handle the rest. You would need to seal around it with silicone caulk to keep weather out.
I have a rough in opening of approx. 34" x 78" to my garage. Im unable to find a door with in my budget. However, both home Depot and Lowes sells a Masonite 32 x 80 prehung steel plated door. I have contact ed several handyman and nobody is willing to cut it down. I was thinking about cutting it down myself. I have very limitative experience in using skill saw, but watched several videos. It seem simple
Anyone have any experience in cutting down a steel door, and would they recommend in doing so.
ThanksMary
[color=#383a3b]Hi all,[/color]
[color=#383a3b]I need to replace a "sidelight" window which is the leftmost window on the first picture below. It is a casement window.
The opening has three windows: two sidelight casement windows and a single hung window. The middle window is wider, so quite standard and would be fairly easy to replace. [/color]
[color=#383a3b]I am not sure I can find a window that is narrow and tall like the existing one. A stationary panel, or a picture window would be OK.
This post is about the approach, level of skill that is required and type of window that would work. Any ideas regarding how I should proceed? [/color]
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[color=#383a3b]Thanks[/color]