I have an old wooden casement window in rough shape that won't shut properly. On the "pivot" side there is a large gap when the window shuts on the bottom of the sash. On the top of that same side, there is no gap. We plan to replace this window in the spring but I can feel a good amount of cold air pouring in. I was wondering if I can do some adjustment to close this gap or a good way to just seal it up for now if that would be better.
I've attached some pictures, ignore the white foam tape which was my feeble attempt to stop some of the air in the meantime. Gap in bottom right
That metal bar in your middle picture probably has rotten wood under it, so the screw that is closest to the pivot point probably is not holding the metal bar (and therefore the window sash) in tight as you crank the window closed. The foam tape is also pushing the window out farther as you try to make it air tight, which is making the gap worse.
Someone has already tried to put longer screws in, because the torx screw in the middle picture is probably not original.
A good way to seal it up would be to get on the outside and push it in as hard as you can, then screw it shut. Only recommending that since you say you will replace it soon... and I doubt you need to open them in winter.
Hi. I am installing patio sliding door in a concrete block house. I received door with a nailing flange/fin instead of one without the nail fin which I ordered. I was waiting for the door a few months and I already have the opening ready so I will install these. I am not sure what would be the best option of installing it.
Should I build a treated wood frame in the middle of the concrete and attach the door flange to it OR would it be better to attach it to the exterior wall?
The first option would match my windows and other door which are installed in the middle of the concrete blocks depth but it would be more difficult to do and would require a bit larger rough opening.
Second option is much easier, I wouldn't need to cut the wall and finish the exterior with stucco. But it would stick a bit out outside and would require a mounding around it and I would need to think of a way to finish the interior floor gap etc.
Which option is correct and better?
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I'm attaching a pic of a door handle on an exterior door. The door also has a deadbolt which is not shown, as it is not involved in the discussion. It used to be that when the door was slammed shut, it used to latch by itself. Thereafter, it could be unlatched by pushing down on the exterior lever or turning the knob from the inside. I'm also attaching a pic of the inside knob. These days the behavior has changed. Most of the time, when the door is shut, it does not latch, with the result that the door can be flung open either by wind or a knob pull (without turning) from the inside or a door push (without depressing the lever) from the outside. In such a case, the lever stays in the down position. I can manually move the lever up which does cause the latch to take hold when the door is shut. There are also times that when the door has been successfully latched, the outside lever is hard to press down and it can take repeated attempts to unlatch. How can I fix this?
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01-07-22, 10:48 AM
